Tthere are some islands of space. Sylt has its dunes, Bali its temples, Hawaii its volcanoes. But only one has it Dream bays. Wide arches in the south and north, as designed by a generous creator; small, narrow notches like pieces of cake on the rugged coasts in the east and northwest.
The smaller, the finer. They are for many who now close their eyes for a few seconds and approach Mallorca in their thoughts, the largest longing place on this dream island, which in 2019 still attracted 4.5 million Germans.
Cala Torta and Cala Sa Nau in the east, the fantastic Cala Mondragó in the southeast or Sa Calobra in the northwest sometimes only offer space for a few dozen sun worshipers. But everyone can go, even if a walk or a journey by boat is required.
If you don’t like one bay, you switch to the next one next door. Depending on the orientation towards the wind and the open sea, it can happen that waves surge in one bay, while at the same time the bay lies calm and flat as in a bathtub.
Hiking in the Serra de Tramuntana
But there is more that we particularly miss about Mallorca these days. If you look up from the turquoise blue water in the bay of Alcúdia and look to the west, you can see it on the horizon Serra de Tramuntana.
In winter and sometimes until May, the peaks are covered in snow like an ensaïmada of powdered sugar. If you fly towards Palma in a vacation bomber, the view is of the tops of the Tramuntana the Highlight. With every approach he makes his heart jump again.
The walks through this majestic massif are another reason to long for Mallorca. On the Ruta de Pedra en Sec (route of the dry stone walls) you can experience untouched nature and original villages, which give an idea of what it looked like here in the 19th century.
And only the return trip on the Ma-15 towards the island’s capital: after Algaida you overcome the last hill before the large island level Es Plà and look like a romantic landscape painting of the 19th century. Huge, deserted mountains on the horizon, over which the clouds race, as a contrast the flat, rampant city in the south.
Off to the market halls in Palma de Mallorca
In this city, Palma, the sandy yellow alleys, some of which are still from the Moorish period, and the tree-lined harbor promenade Passeig Marítim remain in memory. Palma ‘s streets are in her Light and glow so completely different from everything we know from Northern Europe, with this magic of the Mediterranean neither Hamburg, Berlin nor Düsseldorf can keep up.
Would you like a bit more Majorcan? Then off to Palma Market halls with their overflowing goods stands and splendid eating stations. Palmesanos are also drawn to the “Mercat” in the hipster Santa Catalina district and the two-story “Mercat de L’Olivar” near Plaça d’Espanya.
They do their shopping here and meet for lunch at a tapas bar. As a tourist, you just stand there and order a small beer – one caña – and scrambled eggs with sea urchins.
If the Spanish of the local Spaniards appears to you to be Spanish and has a growling undertone, then it will probably not be Spanish, but Mallorcan, the variant of the Catalan language spoken on the island.
Mallorcans are also said to be grumpy. The writer George Sand complained about this 150 years ago in her not very benevolent book “A Winter in Mallorca”. The French woman did not find affection or friendships on the island.
And to this day, despite several decades of tourist invasion, many locals keep their distance and down-to-earth objectivity – to be more cordial when you get to know each other better. Not played, but honestly. Anyone who has ever experienced it misses it.
Sea view from the cemetery in Deià
In Mallorca you can even long for a cemetery. Of course, only as a destination. One of the most beautiful places on the island is the God Field of Deià. Seldom are faded a place with such a panorama granted.
Located 400 meters above sea level on the edge of the Tramuntana, Deià is a prime example of upscale village life. If you prefer Pierce Brosnan or Andrew Llyod Webber as neighbors, then you’ve come to the right place in these successfully renovated village houses.
In the summer months, however, you have to expect bus loads of visitors who look into the window. Or take pictures of the pictures of saints at the house entrances.
Not too many make it to the village church and the cemetery. And in spring you often have this highest point of Deià all to yourself.
You look at green hills, hear goats grumble, study the pedigrees between the cemetery walls, think about life and death – or where you can best squeeze freshly after descending in the village Orange juice and almond cake could eat two other island specialties that we currently miss a lot.
The island’s unique fragrance
The last in the series of Mallorcan desires is Scent of the island called. It is more noticeable in spring and autumn than in hot summer. It is a moist, spicy softwood smell, a mixture of pine, lavender and rosemary. Like a bubble bath from the 80s.
The scent is volatile. You smell it like the perfume cloud of women strolling by when you get out of the bus or car for the first time after arriving at the hotel.
But soon the nose got used to it and you no longer notice the special island aroma. Until the next arrival.
Eight tips for your next vacation in Mallorca:
- Wine instead of sangria: Sangría am Ballermann, cocktails at the hotel bar – there is a lot you can do in Mallorca for your fluid balance. But what about the great island wines? They have more and more restaurants on their menu, even in package hotels. It is worth trying them. Some wineries can be visited, for example Macià Batle or the Bodegues Ribas near Binissalem. The island drops taste best on site: If you take Mallorca wine home with you, it is no longer the same. Wine experts say that it is due to the lower humidity and the lower salt content of the German air.
- Try top cuisine: Mallorcan cuisine is down-to-earth, including fish, shrimp, lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, olives, garlic. In the hands of island chefs like Tomeu Caldentey (in Sa Coma), Andreu Genestra (at Capdepera and in Palma) or Adrián Qetglas (in Palma), however, with the same ingredients, it becomes a revelation. And at prices for which you would have to pay three times as much at this star level. Lamb with peas and mint, veal with pears and hazelnuts can be found on the map of Qetglas. Genestra beckons with anglerfish seasoned with pine and razor clams with ensaimada and plum. At lunchtime, these top chefs often offer inexpensive lunch menus.
- Make a chiringuito tour: There are over 100 beach bars in Mallorca, called chiringuitos. Therefore: do not always go to the same one. You can make an excursion program. Today for a swim followed by lunch on the north coast, tomorrow the same in another beach bar on the east coast. Most chiringuitos are open from May to October, after which they are mined for the winter.
- To speak Spanish: Speaking more Spanish would also be a good intent. Or maybe even the grumpy Mallorcan? But with Spanish you can get very far and also reach the guest workers from mainland Spain or from Latin America who toil in hotels and shops because the Mallorcans alone could not keep the shop going (or no longer need it). A few words are a good place to start. The gesture counts.
- There is not only Palma: The island’s capital is a magnet. But you can also shop, eat and drink in the many other cities on the island. In Alcúdia, in Santanyí, Inca, in the magical Artà in the east. Weekly markets take place alternately in the towns. And there is Manacor, the second most important city, an unknown size for many tourists. Manacor has an imposing church (be sure to go inside, free entry), the tower of which is higher than the Cathedral of Palma, and a historical museum in an old fortress (also free entry). Doesn’t sound that interesting yet? Then maybe a detour to the museum of the most famous living islander: tennis player Rafael Nadal. He still lives in Manacor today.
- Take bus and train: It doesn’t always have to be the rental car. To Manacor there is another train (from Palma via Inca), the mountain and valley train from Palma to Sóller is wonderful. In addition, there is an ever better developed bus system across the island from the bus station under Palmas Plaça d’Espanya.
- Evening at the beach: Finding a parking space is a problem on the top beaches in summer. But the beaches are also there in the evening! Then it is still warm, but much emptier (usually from 4 p.m.). The sunset is also a spectacle.
- November insider tip: Traveling against the masses is also worthwhile with a view to the year. Why only in July and August? One of the most beautiful times on the island, with a lot of sunshine and temperatures that make it possible to sit outside in the evening, is early November. The month, so they say in Mallorca, is the “little summer”.
This text is from the WELT AM SONNTAG. We would be happy to deliver them to your home on a regular basis.