Smokes is trout

Animated picture Emmanuel Pierrot

Jim Harrison must go back to his grave: this year, he could not have teased trout in the rivers of the Morvan, near his friend Gérard Oberlé, writer ogre of knowledge and good things to drink and eat . All of this is the fault of this damn coronavirus that prohibits dipping the wire in water. However, we know a lot of chicks who recognize themselves through the words of Jim Harrison in A good day to die (ed. 10/18, 2003): “I was struck again by the way the fishery helped me to wipe out everything else, at least as long as I was in the river. For a few hours, all the problems – money, sex, alcohol, madness – disappeared in my concentration on the river, the places where the big trout were probably, the clear currents or in the swirls near the grassy shore , or behind the big rocks and pebbles that protruded from the surface of the water, forming pockets of water that always seemed to contain one or two fish. ”

Ass comb

Our old friend Bébert is one of those guys for whom life revolves around three pillars: the factory, the garden, fishing. Turner that he was Bébert. “OHQ” as we said for a highly skilled worker. At the workshop, he was entrusted with the machining of prototypes on his Ernault Somua lathe. You shouldn’t have risked touching his bike, which he burnt like a new penny. He was so proud of it that he didn’t understand anything when the takeover’s combs passed before him without a look or a word. It’s true what, almost forty banks to machine scrap for the same taulier, it deserved at least a bit of chat. He didn’t see anything coming either when the HRD told him that it was not going very much question backlog. It must be said that Bébert is not the kind of guy who gossips at the bistro after work. Him, it is the garden, the fishing which ventilates the mood. So when the big egg spoke “Production outsourcing” in Hungary and China, he simply put his tools in their large rag, emptied his closet in the locker room and then he went home to butter his potatoes. When his wife tumbled into the garden to unpack his chickweed, he simply shrugged, grumbling: “I was told I have enough quarters for retirement.”

Giant of Flanders

Sometimes he misses his turn, the smell of hot metal, the precision of a successful adjustment. But he doesn’t say anything because he always has something to take care of. The garden first: prepare the soil for the end of winter before the spring sowing: transplant, pick, pick, water, and then there is always a blade of grass to pull. You also have to take care of the hens, the rabbits (he is particularly proud of his giant of Flanders, a male), give a helping hand to his wife to hull the beans of the canned goods. Winter, Bébert “Do his wood” as he says in his communal affouage. He cuts, he splits oak, beech, foyard. Logs and quarters of 50 cm (it is precise as in the factory) for the Godin stove which heats a large part of their house. Bébert does everything himself. He never put the words “autarky”, “autonomy” in Scrabble. But the other day, he laughed softly when he heard on TV talking about “transition”, “living and consuming differently”. “I’ve always lived like this, that he thought, and my world will last long enough before I pass the gun to the left. “

Reels

And then there is fishing. This year, as usual, Bébert checked his gear in February. You have to see him polishing his rods, disassembling and checking his reels, mounting his lines, classifying his hooks and lures in his drawer box as tidy as that of his wife’s sewing. At dawn on March 14, he was happy as a kid, posted in one of his favorite fishing spots. To tell the truth, he doesn’t care a bit about the fish, especially since the farmed trout that has just been released is a bit like “duck fishing” at funfairs. Bébert especially likes “to take some fresh air” as he says, snack alone with his dog corniaud by scanning the river bed where he hopes to see a real trout, “A savage”. This year, Bébert came back from fishing with a nice … dandelion salad they ate with bacon and a poached egg. When containment landed like smallpox on the low clergy, Bébert sighed that he was “Too old for this kind of bullshit”. But the doctor phoned: with his emphysema (the fault in the scrap metal dust at the factory), he has to stay well sealed so as not to catch the coronavirus. As usual, he shrugged. he “Fuck the coronamachin” and then “Those joggers idiots”, they have the right to run in the countryside. So why shouldn’t he walk his dog along the river?

Big fario

So the other afternoon, after sowing an 18-day radish plank in the garden, he goes to the water’s edge while the boss goes shopping at Super-U. The dog knows the way alone, over there where the river bends under a large willow. This is where it hides “The memory”, thinks Bébert. A big fario that he spotted a handful of times when she came out of his hideout, a huge strain. Bébert admires him. She fucked all the fishermen in the area. He is afraid it will end up in a landing net. He never had the trophy virus. He would just like to feel it undulate between his fingers underwater like when he was fishing by hand, kid. Today, the wave is clear under a hot spring sun. Bébert leans against the stump under which he distinguishes a tapered shadow. It’s for sure, it’s her. So he plunges his arms into the water to try to catch Memère. But it is already far away when Bébert falls with all his weight into the river.

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“You are going to catch death”, she says Bébert’s wife as he dries himself with a rough towel. Once the anger of his mishap is over, he smiles and thinks he’s twelve years old this afternoon. Then he leaves in a huge laugh when he sees in the middle of his wife’s shopping a bag of smoked trout which she is carefully disinfecting with hydroalcoholic gel.

Noirmoutier beanie

Like all fish when smoked, trout love potatoes, especially when they are early, like those grown on the island of Noirmoutier. The star is the bonnotte but there is also the earlier sirtema, the iodea, the lady christ’l. Here is a recipe for “Bonnet apples in goat whipped cream and dill, strips of smoked trout and Siltimur pepper” that you can make with the potatoes available in these confined times.

You need 20 medium-sized underwear for six people; 2 slices of smoked trout cut into strips; 20 cl of very cold liquid cream; ½ fresh goat cheese log; 12 small sprigs of dill; 1 lime cut into quarters; Siltimur pepper or another if you can’t find it (black pepper, Espelette pepper …)

Wash and brush the potatoes then immerse them in a large pot of boiling salted water. Allow 10 minutes for cooking as soon as it boils again. Drain and keep warm. Whip the liquid cream with a mixer. In another bowl, whisk the goat cheese with the rinsed and finely chopped dill and stir in the cream. Whisk again and keep cool.

Arrange the bonnottes on each plate (about three per guest), cutting the top to make the flesh of the potato visible. Using a fluted piping bag or a spoon, arrange your cream.

Add one or two strips of trout, a sprig of dill and a wedge of lime. Give two mill turns with Siltimur pepper and it’s ready.

You can zest your lime in the whipped cream.


Jacky durand

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Let’s eat life against the Covid-19: the gratin comtois

Thinking of wallowing your little ones in the cellar? To poison your spouse with arsenic? Normal when attacking the fourth week of confinement. So nail their beaks with a Comtois gratin.

Dandelions

This paraphernalia is heavy: potatoes, smoked pig breast and Comté of course. When it lands hot on the table, it smells good at the top, the dandelion meadows, the fir woods and the Montbéliardes who ring the angelus with their bells. Even that there is one that must be having a good time on hills and dales, these days in Haut-Doubs. It’s the common frog. Usually, in this season, it is pan-fried with butter, parsley and garlic on the Comtois ranges. This year, we will not come to interrupt him too much in the middle of coitus to fill the eaters of amphibians. Although, there must be some Raboliot and other poachers to challenge the confinement and track down the frog.

The previous recipeEat up against the Covid-19: two desserts for the price of one

Cheese grinder

Coming back to the Comtois gratin, it’s a lifelong aminche. It’s much more than a dish, it’s obvious. Whoever ventures to ask for the precise recipe would immediately trigger the general hilarity between Morteau and Mouthe. At least, that’s our point of view because we have always known it, like the Jazz alarm clock on the bedside table of our old people. This is the kind of frichti that we learned while watching the daronne. Baby, we had the right to turn the cheese wheel over the slices of potatoes and we wanted the gratin crust like a rare candy. Then, we were allowed to fry it all alone with the thoroughness of a gardener tracing his furrows when it came to alternating layers of potatoes and cheese. We were persuaded to make a masterpiece but our slowness annoyed maternal power prodigiously.

White wine

Later, the gratin Comtois became the pillar of our student broke gastronomy. It was no longer a question of building Versailles in an oven dish but of throwing a few handfuls of potatoes and cheese in it between two liters of edelzwicker, the gratin pumping the overflow of Alsatian white wine. Sometimes, even today, a distant correspondent reminds us on the phone of these bacchanalia around the gratin of Comt. We listen to it, half-amused, half-nostalgic while opening the fridge door to find out if we have enough to make this timeless bectance.

Charlotte

You have to start by peeling and slicing a good kilo of potatoes (charlotte or roseval). Chop two cloves of garlic and grate a good piece of Comté. Cut into pieces 200 grams of smoked pork belly. Generously butter an oven dish. Place a layer of potatoes; salt moderately; add a handful of bacon; a layer of grated Comté cheese; a little garlic, a few strips of butter and freshly ground pepper. Continue to layer the layers until you finish with the grated cheese. You can also wet with a glass of dry white wine. Bake three quarters of an hour at 220 ° C and enjoy with a nice seasonal salad.


Jacky durand

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Gobble Up Life Against Covid-19: Guy Savoy’s Lentil Curry

In these times of generalized confinement, we have an old family legend about lentils, peddled from generation to generation. That of a grandfather lost somewhere between the Meuse and the Somme during the First World War. Imagine, survival in the mud and shit of the trenches. Another form of containment. We pulled the bayonet out of the barrel, under the machine gun, to expose ourselves to another kind of deadly virus. In the family story, our furry young grandfather had been stranded for days under a bus storm when a ladle of lentils was thrown into his bowl and he lapped up without paying attention to this ragougnasse. Up to the spoon too much, when a nasty piece of junk was stuck in one of his ratiches, causing him terrible pain that he had to endure for three days and three nights. “We were in the middle of a pipe breaker, he said. Me, it was nothing, my tooth, next to the comrades who had their holes drilled. But if you knew what I tasted … “

Rage

One day, he told us that he may have survived this steel storm because he had “The rage that you treat your tooth”. He had kept from this painful episode a holy scare of lentils, which made him say when he was served: “You trilled them well, didn’t you?” Are there more stones or scrap? ”

Read also Let’s eat life against the Covid-19: two desserts for the price of one

Universal

Not only is the lentil today, most of the time, well sorted but it is above all a precious vegetable protein and a universal legume in all cuisines of the world. In France alone, there is a slew of varieties to delight all the simmerings: we think of green lentils from Puy, Berry but also the blonde from Saint-Flour and lentil from Champagne.

Multi-star chef

We borrowed its lentil curry from multi-star chef Guy Savoy in his amazing book Gourmet vegetables (1). You need 100 g of carrots; 100 g onions; 200 g lentils; a teaspoon of curry powder; 15 cl of fresh cream; a tomato; a knob of butter; salt and pepper.

Wash the lentils several times in plenty of water and soak them for 45 minutes, then drain them.

Peel onions and carrots and cut them into small dice four millimeters per side. Put these in a frying pan over a low heat with a knob of butter, just long enough to let them return their vegetable water. Then add the lentils and twice their volume of water. Put a lid and cook over low heat 45 minutes. In the meantime, check from time to time that there is enough liquid in the pan so that it does not stick and, if necessary, add a little water.

After 45 minutes of cooking, add 15 cl of fresh cream and a teaspoon of curry powder. The cream will first liquefy, then when the boiling begins, it will start to reduce.

Meanwhile, world a tomato. Start by cutting a cone around the tail with a small pointed knife in order to remove the slightly hard part of the flesh at the same time. To peel the tomato, cut a small cross at the base of the fruit then immerse it for twelve seconds in a saucepan of boiling water, and then fifteen seconds in cold water. The skin then withdraws on its own.

Cut the tomato crosswise and, using the knife, remove the seeds and the pulp to keep only the flesh. Then cut the tomato into small dice.

Pour the lentils into a baking dish. Add the diced tomatoes and place in the oven for three minutes, enough time to heat the tomato.

(1) Gourmet vegetables by Guy Savoy with Guy Langlois (ed. Plon, 1985)


Jacky durand

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Gobble Up Life Against the Covid-19: Joseph Viola Ham Endives

We didn’t really see him coming, all of us confined (almost all). However, there were indications: the beginning of spring ten days ago, the sky more and more clear, the time change last weekend … April is here. As the seasons do not wait for the end of confinement to succeed, the beginning of April also means that it is the last month – before, hopefully, their return in October – to eat chicory, or chicons as they are called in the North and in Belgium.

Among the recipes in video that the Lyon chef Joseph Viola (1), best worker in France in 2004, offers these days on Instagram, we salivated before its endives with ham. For two people, you need: 4 slices of white ham, 4 endives, about 150 grams of grated Gruyère cheese, a little lemon juice (not compulsory). And for the béchamel: 150 grams of liquid cream, 350 grams of milk, 40 grams of butter, 40 grams of flour, nutmeg, salt, pepper.

The previous recipeLet’s eat life against the Covid-19: the calendos party

Wash the endives and place them in a casserole dish, with a little water, just “the bottom [de la cocotte], says the cook. We tend to cook vegetables too much, we distort them. ” Add coarse salt and a knob of butter, cover. Cook for about twenty minutes. During this time, prepare the béchamel: melt the butter, without letting it color, add the flour, mix quickly off the heat and put back on the heat for a little minute, still without going to the coloring. Add half the cold milk, beat well so that the preparation is smooth. Salt, pepper, nutmeg. Add the rest of the milk and the cream, mix well over the heat so that the sauce thickens a little.

With the tip of a knife, check the cooking of the endives, cook for a few more minutes if necessary by adding a little lemon juice “So that the endives stay very white”, advises Joseph Viola. Add the endive broth to the béchamel, whisk. Add half of the cheese to the béchamel.

Butter a baking dish, pour a few spoons of béchamel in the bottom. Wrap the endives in slices of ham, place them in the dish. Pour the rest of the béchamel on top – “It must be abundant and cover the ham well” – and grated cheese. The, “You have to be generous”. Bake for ten minutes, until the cheese gratin and the béchamel begins to bubble.

(1) Daniel and Denise, 156 rue de Créqui, Lyon IIIe, 8 rue Cuirre, Lyon IVe, and 36 rue Tramassac, Lyon Ve.


Kim Hullot-Guiot

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Gobble Up Life Against Covid-19: Bistrot d’Abel’s Pickled Chicken

Unemployed technically. A week ago, the sounds of pots and pans in the kitchens gave way, for an indefinite period, to silence. Many restaurants were using social media to sell their perishable supplies to neighbors in the neighborhood on Monday. Since then, chefs, caterers, pastry chefs … have continued to share their passion for good food in a different way: some people post recipes that can be made at home online, others have wine delivered to them, taste it and talk about it in their stories on Instagram, others are still filming in the process of simmering and giving live advice, in a master class way from their personal kitchen. In short, if the doors of establishments are closed for now (at least those who do not deliver at home), the craftsmen who delight us are still there. And, paradoxically, almost closer than normal to those they feed.

Thursday, Bastien Depietri, the head of Bistrot d’Abel (1), a cork located on the Lyon peninsula, proposed on Instagram his chicken vinegar recipe. It is done in two stages and is therefore well suited for weekends. On Saturday, cut a raw farm chicken and marinate it in 15 cl of red vinegar, 15 cl of white wine, 3 tablespoons of tomato puree and 3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard. Sunday, drain the chicken and brown the pieces in a spoon of oil (with salt and pepper) to give it a nice color. Degrease and add the aromatic garnish (two chopped onions, 4 cloves of garlic, two sprigs of thyme, and add the marinade). Moisten with chicken broth and cook over low heat 45 minutes. Check the cooking, remove the pieces. Reduce the juice, adjust the seasoning. Serve with rice and if desired, chopped tarragon. The recipe is given for four people.

(1) 47-49 rue de la Bourse, Lyon. Www.bistrot-abel.fr. Instagram: @bistrotdabel


Kim Hullot-Guiot

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