The Shifting Sands of Women’s Fashion: Beyond ‘Quiet Luxury’ and Towards Empowered Expression
Milan Fashion Week’s recent showcases, particularly the rise of brands like Sa Su Phi alongside the appointments of female creative directors at major houses, signal a potential turning point in the industry. The conversation is evolving beyond simply “women designing for women” to a deeper exploration of how clothing can embody and enhance the multifaceted nature of modern womanhood.
The Rise of ‘Architecture of Femininity’
Sa Su Phi’s Fall collection, dubbed ‘The Architecture of Femininity,’ exemplifies this shift. Founders Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco are responding to a desire for garments that balance power and comfort – a demand they themselves experienced. This isn’t about sacrificing one for the other, but rather integrating protective elements, like armor-inspired details and strategic padding, with fluid fabrics like cashmere and silk. The collection’s emphasis on practicality, with features like elastane in jackets, underscores a focus on real-life wearability for working women.
This approach contrasts with earlier trends. The industry has seen a recent reshuffling of creative directors, with Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi, and Meryll Rogge at Marni all taking the helm within the last year. This influx of female leadership is prompting a re-evaluation of design priorities.
From Quiet Luxury to Bold Statements
Even as Sa Su Phi has been described as embodying “quiet luxury,” their latest collection demonstrates a willingness to embrace maximalism. Liquid-gold gowns and striking color combinations – plum knits with blue silk, silver cashmere with khaki – suggest a move towards bolder self-expression. Ferrero’s statement that she designs with her friends in mind, focusing on how they want to experience, highlights a shift away from purely aesthetic concerns towards emotional resonance.
This aligns with a broader trend observed in the luxury market. The Straits Times reported in October 2025 that despite recent shake-ups, women designers are still facing challenges in securing top positions at major labels. However, those who *are* leading brands are increasingly focused on creating collections that reflect the complexities of female identity, rather than simply adhering to traditional notions of femininity.
The Impact of Industry Leadership Changes
The recent departures and appointments at brands like Dior, Gucci, and Chanel are indicative of a larger industry recalibration. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s move from Dior to Fendi, after nine years, is particularly noteworthy. As noted by Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, this reshuffle is one of the most significant in recent fashion history. The appointment of Louise Trotter to Bottega Veneta, following Matthieu Blazy, further emphasizes the growing, though still uneven, representation of women in leadership roles.
The industry is dominated by conservative, elderly male owners at LVMH, Kering, and Chanel, according to fashion writer Dana Thomas. This dynamic influences hiring decisions, as evidenced by the observation that the most recent female designers at Chanel and Dior were viewed as transitional figures.
The Practicality Factor: A Response to Modern Life
The emphasis on practicality in collections like Sa Su Phi’s is a direct response to the demands of modern life. Ferrero’s background as an investment banker and CEO, combined with Cucco’s experience in art direction, informs their design philosophy. They understand the need for clothing that seamlessly transitions from work to evening, and that prioritizes both style and functionality.
This focus on practicality is not limited to Sa Su Phi. The inclusion of elastane in jackets, ensuring comfort and movement, is a small but significant detail that reflects a broader trend towards designing for real women with real lives.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is ‘quiet luxury’ fading as a trend?
A: While still relevant, the trend is evolving. Designers are incorporating bolder elements and prioritizing emotional resonance alongside understated elegance.
Q: Are more women being appointed as creative directors?
A: There has been a recent increase, but representation remains uneven. Challenges persist in securing top positions at major labels.
Q: What is ‘The Architecture of Femininity’?
A: It’s the concept behind Sa Su Phi’s Fall collection, exploring the balance between protective structures and fluid fabrics to represent the complexities of womanhood.
Q: How important is practicality in current fashion trends?
A: Highly important. Designers are increasingly focusing on creating garments that are wearable and functional for everyday life.
Did you know? Meryl Streep was spotted wearing Sa Su Phi’s Lauren wool coat as Miranda Priestly in the trailer for The Devil Wears Prada 2.
Pro Tip: Look for garments that combine structure and fluidity – think tailored pieces with soft fabrics or protective details with flowing silhouettes – to embrace the ‘Architecture of Femininity’ trend.
What are your thoughts on the changing landscape of women’s fashion? Share your opinions in the comments below!
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