The Future of Wine: Resilience, Rediscovery, and a Changing Climate
The wine industry is uniquely vulnerable to climate change. The terroir – the combination of soil, climate, and other environmental factors that define a wine’s character – is directly impacted by shifting weather patterns. Leading wine producers are increasingly focused on carbon emission reduction and adopting sustainable farming practices.
Building Resilience in the Vineyards
Founded in 1870 and now in its fifth generation of family ownership, the Spanish winery Torres is a prime example. Recognized seven times as the “World’s Most Admired Wine Brand” by Drinks International, Torres has been proactively addressing the challenges posed by a changing climate.
“We are strengthening the resistance of the vineyards, much like boosting the human immune system,” explains Mireia Torres, speaking with the DongA Ilbo. “To ensure the vineyards survive climate change, we are increasing the space between vines to reduce competition for water and creating an environment where diverse organisms can coexist within the vineyards.”
Rediscovering Lost Grape Varieties
A key component of this resilience strategy is the recovery of ancient grape varieties. Torres is actively searching for and reviving “lost” grape varieties that once thrived in the region but were overshadowed by more popular choices. These varieties are not only adding to the diversity of their wines but also contributing to soil health.
“We receive reports of abandoned grape varieties through local media, and after about 12 years of genetic testing and certification from the Spanish and Catalan governments, they are reborn as wine,” Torres stated. Currently, 64 ancient varieties have been identified, with seven commercially available, including the Gran Murayes wine, a blend of Querol and Garró, first vinted in 1996.
The Art of Blending and Quality Control
Torres maintains rigorous quality control, conducting wine evaluations weekly. This allows them to adjust for variations in grape flavor due to annual climate differences, fine-tuning the aging process and blend balance to consistently produce top-tier wines. “Wine is a ‘mix of art’,” Torres emphasizes, “We are constantly striving to improve wine quality by making changes to enzymes and the vineyard.”
Expanding Global Reach
This year, Torres is partnering with Kumyang International to introduce its premium Spanish wines to the Korean market, beginning with Mas La Plana, a wine that famously outperformed French châteaux at the 1979 Paris Olympiad.
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