Schiaparelli: When Fashion Dared to Be Art – And What It Means for the Future
For decades, the relationship between fashion and art has been a topic of debate. While fashion often draws inspiration from art, the Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition, “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” argues that fashion is art – a powerful medium capable of challenging norms and reflecting cultural shifts. The show, opening Saturday, March 28, celebrates the groundbreaking work of Elsa Schiaparelli and her contemporary successor, Daniel Roseberry, and asks a provocative question: can clothing truly alter our perception of beauty and societal standards?
The Surrealist Spark: Schiaparelli’s Revolutionary Approach
Elsa Schiaparelli, operating in the early 20th century, wasn’t interested in simply creating beautiful clothes. She aimed to provoke, to surprise, and even to revolt. Unlike her contemporaries, who focused on simplicity or overt beauty, Schiaparelli embraced the unexpected. She collaborated directly with artists like Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Man Ray, embedding their creative visions into her designs. This wasn’t mere appropriation; it was a genuine exchange, a blurring of boundaries between disciplines.
Schiaparelli’s designs were often shocking. A 1938 dress featuring bone formations, inspired by Dalí’s sketches, exemplifies her willingness to push boundaries. She asked, “What if a shoe were a hat?” and “What if a circus-themed jacket had buttons sculpted like horses?” This playful, philosophical approach resonated in a period of cultural upheaval, establishing her as a true innovator.
Daniel Roseberry: Continuing the Legacy of Disruption
Today, Daniel Roseberry carries the torch, continuing Schiaparelli’s tradition of challenging conventions. His designs, showcased alongside Schiaparelli’s in the V&A exhibition, demonstrate a similar boundary-pushing spirit. A couture model clutching a robot baby, or a gown densely adorned with beads, are examples of how Roseberry uses unexpected elements to provoke thought and move fashion – and pop culture – forward.
The Future of Fashion as Art: Trends to Watch
The Schiaparelli exhibition isn’t just a retrospective; it’s a glimpse into the future of fashion. Several key trends are emerging, building on Schiaparelli’s legacy of collaboration, disruption, and artistic expression.
1. Hyper-Collaboration: Beyond Designer Partnerships
Schiaparelli’s collaborations with artists were groundbreaking for her time. Today, we’re seeing a surge in hyper-collaboration, extending beyond traditional designer partnerships. Brands are increasingly working with technologists, scientists, and even activists to create innovative and meaningful designs. Expect to see more garments incorporating bio-luminescent materials, 3D-printed elements, and designs directly addressing social or environmental issues.
2. The Rise of “Wearable Art” and Collectible Fashion
The line between fashion and art is becoming increasingly blurred. Limited-edition pieces, couture creations, and designs incorporating unique artistic techniques are being treated as collectible art objects. This trend is fueled by a growing demand for exclusivity and a desire to invest in pieces with lasting cultural value. Ariana Grande’s 2025 Oscars ball gown, currently on loan to the V&A, exemplifies this shift.
3. Provocation as a Design Principle
Schiaparelli wasn’t afraid to shock. In an era of increasing social and political polarization, designers are using provocation as a deliberate design principle. This doesn’t necessarily signify creating overtly offensive garments, but rather challenging conventional notions of beauty, gender, and identity. Expect to see more designs that spark conversation and encourage critical thinking.
4. The Metaverse and Digital Fashion
The metaverse is opening up entirely new possibilities for fashion as art. Digital garments, NFTs, and virtual fashion shows are allowing designers to experiment with form, texture, and functionality in ways that are impossible in the physical world. This is creating a new generation of “digital-only” designers and collectors, further blurring the lines between the physical and virtual realms.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Where can I see the Schiaparelli exhibition?
A: The “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” exhibition is at the V&A South Kensington in London, closing November 8, 2026.
Q: What made Elsa Schiaparelli so different?
A: Schiaparelli’s willingness to collaborate with artists and embrace the unexpected, even the shocking, set her apart from her contemporaries.
Q: Is fashion truly art?
A: The exhibition argues that it is, highlighting fashion’s ability to reflect cultural shifts, challenge norms, and provoke thought.
Q: How is Daniel Roseberry continuing Schiaparelli’s legacy?
A: Roseberry continues to push boundaries with his designs, embracing the unexpected and challenging conventional notions of beauty.
Pro Tip: Advance booking is recommended for the V&A exhibition, as it is expected to be very popular. Tickets are £28.00 on weekdays and £30.00 on weekends.
What are your thoughts on the intersection of fashion and art? Share your opinions in the comments below!
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