Black Fashion Archives offers an in-depth exploration of some of the most influential Black figures in fashion that deserve more praise.
Edward Buchanan is recognized as the first design director at Bottega Veneta—long before the brand’s current prominence. At 26, Buchanan shaped the house into what It’s today, yet his contributions were largely unacknowledged until recently, with the brand’s campaign honoring the designer.
Buchanan continues to inspire, currently running his knitwear brand Sansovino 6, serving as Fashion Director at Perfect Magazine Milan, and consulting for brands like Off-White. He also co-founded “We Are Made In Italy,” alongside Stella Jean, to diversify Italy’s fashion landscape.
From Cleveland to Milan
Born in Cleveland, Ohio, Buchanan was raised by a single mother who instilled in him a strong work ethic. He moved to New York City to attend Parsons School of Design, balancing school and work while immersing himself in the city’s nightlife. Connections made during this time led to a role at Bottega Veneta, following an encounter with Rodney Patterson, a display designer for the brand.
A Groundbreaking Opportunity at Bottega Veneta
In 1995, Bottega Veneta was approaching its 30th anniversary but hadn’t yet established itself as the global powerhouse it is today. Buchanan saw the opportunity as his first real break into fashion.
After presenting a creative project, Buchanan received news that changed his life: he was on a flight to Vicenza, Italy. Upon arrival, he was detained by immigration officers, an experience he felt was racially motivated. This underscored the challenges he faced as a Black man stepping into a significant role at Bottega Veneta—as the house’s first Design Director.
The Creative Force Behind the Scenes
Buchanan staged Bottega Veneta’s first Milan runway show for Spring/Summer 1999, collaborating with designers like Manuela Morin on shoes and Eduardo Wong Vale on handbags. Early campaigns featured Rachel Roberts, photographed by Peter Lindbergh, and Vivien Solari, shot by Steven Klein.
The brand gained momentum, attracting artists like Lauryn Hill and visits from John Galliano. Stuart Vevers later joined to design handbags, expanding the brand’s international reach. By the Fall/Winter 2000 show, Buchanan sensed his time at Bottega Veneta was nearing its finish, choosing to pursue independent ventures despite effectively acting as creative director without the formal title.
Expanding Horizons and Giving Back
After leaving Bottega Veneta, Buchanan co-founded LEFLESH with Manuela Morin, a label known for sculptural tailoring and craftsmanship. The brand created custom pieces for performers like Cher and Jennifer Lopez.
Buchanan collaborated with Virgil Abloh at Off-White, and Abloh often acknowledged Buchanan’s technical brilliance and creative integrity. Buchanan’s expertise extends across generations.
Acknowledging a Legacy
Bottega Veneta’s May 2025 campaign celebrating fifty years of intrecciato leather featured Buchanan, publicly acknowledging his legacy for the first time on a global scale. This highlighted the importance of recognizing contributions that often travel uncredited in fashion history.
By spotlighting Buchanan, Bottega Veneta broadened the conversation about visibility, authorship, and remembrance within the industry.
Future Trends: The Rise of Untold Stories and Inclusive Design
Edward Buchanan’s story is indicative of a larger shift within the fashion industry: a growing demand for recognizing the contributions of Black creatives and designers who have historically been overlooked. This trend is likely to accelerate, driven by several factors:
Increased Demand for Diversity and Inclusion
Consumers are increasingly seeking brands that align with their values, including diversity and inclusion. Brands that actively acknowledge and celebrate the contributions of underrepresented groups will likely gain a competitive advantage.
The Power of Social Media and Digital Archives
Platforms like Instagram and TikTok are empowering marginalized voices and providing a space to share untold stories. Digital archives are also becoming increasingly accessible, allowing researchers and consumers to uncover hidden histories.
A Focus on Craftsmanship and Heritage
There’s a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship and heritage in fashion. Highlighting the artisans and designers who have shaped a brand’s identity—even those whose contributions were previously unacknowledged—can add depth and authenticity.
The Growth of Independent and BIPOC-Owned Brands
The rise of independent and BIPOC-owned brands is challenging the traditional power structures within the fashion industry. These brands are often more committed to inclusivity and social responsibility.
Buchanan’s work with “We Are Made In Italy” exemplifies this trend, actively working to diversify the Italian fashion landscape. This type of initiative will become increasingly common as brands seek to address systemic inequalities.
FAQ
- Who is Edward Buchanan? Edward Buchanan is a fashion designer recognized as the first design director at Bottega Veneta and the founder of Sansovino 6.
- What is Sansovino 6? Sansovino 6 is Buchanan’s gender-fluid knitwear label.
- What is “We Are Made In Italy”? It’s an organization co-founded by Buchanan and Stella Jean, designed to diversify Italy’s fashion landscape.
- Why was Buchanan’s contribution to Bottega Veneta previously overlooked? His contributions were largely unacknowledged until recently, highlighting a broader issue of representation in fashion history.
What are your thoughts on the importance of recognizing unsung heroes in fashion? Share your opinions in the comments below!
