The Return of the Turn-Up: How a Preppy Detail is Dominating Modern Style
Trousers are undergoing a subtle but significant shift. The turn-up, once a hallmark of preppy aesthetics, is experiencing a resurgence, spotted on runways, at fashion weeks, and increasingly, on the streets. From Harry Styles’ pinstripe trousers at the Brits to recent collections from JW Anderson for Uniqlo, the turned-up hem is proving to be more than just a fleeting trend.
From Royal Ascot to the Modern Runway
The history of the turn-up is surprisingly regal. Muffy Aldrich, editor of the blog Salt Water New England: The Thing Before Preppy, notes that the style reportedly originated with King Edward VII, who rolled up his trousers at Ascot. This seemingly slight act cemented the turn-up’s place in fashion history.
Today, brands like Alex Mill are embracing the glance, pairing turned-up jeans with vibrant socks and playful footwear. John Lewis reports a “significant move toward the turn-up” among fashion enthusiasts, offering a range of cuff depths from subtle to substantial.
Why Now? The Preppy Revival and Beyond
The turn-up’s comeback aligns with a broader resurgence of preppy style, echoing the influence of trends like Sperry Top-Siders, baseball caps, and rugby shirts. As the 1980 Official Preppy Handbook suggests, the turn-up is considered a foundational element of the aesthetic.
However, the trend extends beyond mere nostalgia. Somsack Sikhounmuong, creative director of Alex Mill, suggests that the turn-up is part of a cyclical fashion pattern. “Everything in fashion is connected…cuffed hems are no different,” he explains. “After seasons of noteworthy footwear, it makes sense to roll up your pants and show off those shoes.”
Getting the Turn-Up Right: A Guide to Execution
Achieving the perfect turn-up isn’t as simple as folding over fabric. Melanie Wilkinson, the Guardian’s styling editor, emphasizes that success depends on several factors. The ideal trousers are straight-legged or slightly tapered. A single turn-up can appear unfinished, while a double turn-up can be bulky.
Denim quality also plays a role. Stiffer selvedge denim holds its shape better than lighter-weight fabrics with elastane. A one-inch cuff is a fine starting point, though Aldrich suggests 1.5 inches is “closer to perfect.”
The Functional Appeal of a Classic Detail
Beyond aesthetics, the turn-up offers a practical benefit. Aldrich points out that they “allow a garment to be both crisp and ready for horsing around,” providing a balance between polish and practicality. She notes that classic preps even wear them in situations where they’re impractical – on boats or in the field – simply given that they love the look.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the history of the trouser turn-up?
The turn-up is believed to have originated with King Edward VII, who rolled up his trousers at Ascot.
What type of trousers work best with a turn-up?
Straight-legged or slightly tapered trousers are ideal. Avoid turn-ups on overly wide-legged styles.
How long should a turn-up be?
Around 1 to 1.5 inches is a good starting point, but adjust based on your height and the style of your trousers.
The turn-up’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to blend functionality, style, and a touch of timeless elegance. As fashion continues to embrace a sense of playful sophistication, this classic detail is poised to remain a key element of modern wardrobes.
Explore more style guides and trend reports on The Guardian’s fashion page.
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