The Rise of the ‘Hidden Face’ Jacket: Why the Funnel Neck is Fashion’s New Power Player
Sales of funnel-neck jackets are soaring, with John Lewis reporting a 1,000% year-on-year increase. This isn’t just a fleeting trend; it’s a significant shift in outerwear preferences, driven by a complex interplay of practicality, style, and even sociopolitical messaging.
From Runways to the Real World: A Ubiquitous Silhouette
The funnel-neck jacket, characterized by its boxy cut and a collar that sits between 9cm and 14cm high, has rapidly moved from designer runways to the high street. John Lewis currently stocks 10 different versions, while Marks & Spencer sells approximately 10 funnel-neck jackets daily. Brands like Reiss, Uniqlo, and Mango are too experiencing high demand, with some styles selling out quickly. Vogue magazine recently highlighted funnel-neck coats from Barbour, Monki, and Uniqlo as particularly chic.
Beyond Women’s Fashion: A Gender-Neutral Appeal
The trend isn’t limited to womenswear. Burberry recently debuted a black greatcoat with a funnelled leather collar as part of its Fall 2026 collection, suggesting the style could become a key outerwear piece for men as well. Even the English rugby player Tatyana Heard sported a black bomber style at London Fashion Week.
The ‘Feminist Facelift’ and the Art of ‘Performative Hiding’
The jacket has earned nicknames like the “feminist facelift” due to its ability to conceal the lower face without cosmetic intervention. Bridget Dalton, a semiotician at Truth Consulting, describes the trend as “performative hiding,” noting that it paradoxically draws more attention to the wearer. It’s a shift away from “quiet luxury” towards “silent luxury.”
Political Statements and High-Profile Adoptions
The funnel-neck jacket is increasingly being adopted by influential figures, adding another layer to its significance. The Duchess of Sussex was recently seen wearing a Zara funnel-neck coat during a visit to Jordan, while the First Lady of New York, Rama Duwaji, wore both brown and black versions during her husband’s inauguration. This suggests the jacket may be becoming a uniform of the progressive left.
A Historical Perspective: From Military Roots to Modern Icon
The funnel neck has a rich history, appearing in military coats and luxury fashion collections as early as the 1950s, with designs from Balenciaga and Givenchy. Audrey Hepburn famously wore a cherry-red skirt suit with a funnel neck in the 1963 film Charade, showcasing the style’s potential for sophistication and intrigue. Phoebe Philo’s 2023 collection further cemented the funnel neck’s place in contemporary fashion.
Why Now? The Broader Trend of High Necklines
The rise of the funnel-neck jacket is part of a larger trend towards higher necklines in fashion. From quarter-zip sweaters to popped-collar polo shirts, designers are embracing styles that offer a sense of coverage and structure. This contrasts with previous trends favoring lower necklines and exposed décolletage.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is a funnel-neck jacket? It’s a jacket with a high, structured collar that stands away from the neck, resembling a funnel.
Is this trend likely to last? Given its historical roots, current popularity, and versatility, the funnel-neck jacket appears to be more than a fleeting trend.
Where can I buy a funnel-neck jacket? John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, Reiss, Uniqlo, and Mango are just a few retailers currently offering a variety of styles.
What makes the funnel-neck jacket so appealing? It offers a combination of practicality, style, and a subtle sense of anonymity.
Is this jacket suitable for all body types? The boxy, oversized cuts often seen in funnel-neck jackets can be flattering on a variety of figures.
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