Beyond Bridgerton: The Future of Anachronistic Costume Design
Emerald Fennell’s new take on Wuthering Heights is sparking conversation, but not about the plot. It’s the costumes – a deliberately jarring mix of historical periods and modern materials – that are dominating headlines. This isn’t a new trend, but a growing movement. From cellophane wedding dresses to Elizabethan collars crafted from art deco lace, costume designers are increasingly prioritizing storytelling and spectacle over strict historical accuracy. But where is this trend heading?
The ‘Bridgerton Effect’ and the Rise of Fantasy
While Sofia Coppola’s 2006 Marie Antoinette offered early glimpses of this approach, many credit the popularity of Netflix’s Bridgerton with truly igniting the trend. Keith Lodwick, a theatre and film historian, calls it the “Bridgerton effect,” noting its escapist appeal during the pandemic. This desire for fantasy, for a visually arresting world unbound by the constraints of reality, seems to be a key driver. As Lodwick points out, expressive costume design often coincides with a world in need of escapism, mirroring the success of 1940s Pride and Prejudice during the beginnings of World War II.
A Deliberate Disobedience to History
Jacqueline Durran, the Oscar-winning costume designer for Fennell’s Wuthering Heights, explicitly states they “are not representing a moment in time at all.” This sentiment is echoed by Holly Waddington, who used modern fabrics like plastic and latex in Yorgos Lanthimos’ Poor Things. The goal isn’t to recreate the past, but to interpret it through a contemporary lens, prioritizing emotional resonance and visual impact. This approach allows designers to distill influences from various eras – Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen, even German milkmaid styles – into a cohesive, albeit unconventional, aesthetic.
The Allure of the ‘Poetic Response’
Some designers believe that abandoning strict accuracy allows for a more profound connection to the source material. Waddington argues that a striving for period correctness in Poor Things would have resulted in a different tone, hindering a “poetic response to the text.” This suggests a shift in the role of costume design – from meticulous recreation to evocative interpretation. When done well, it’s “fun,” as Sandy Powell puts it, but poor execution can be “grating.”
The Limits of Anachronism: A Counter-Argument
Not everyone is convinced this trend represents a significant shift. Helen Walter, a costume and visual historian, suggests that costume design has always reflected the time in which it’s created, rather than solely the period it depicts. She emphasizes that costume choices “always say something about the time that it’s being made.” Waddington herself expresses a desire to tackle an Elizabethan drama with historically accurate (though perhaps uncomfortable) details like wooden teeth, highlighting a continued appreciation for authentic period elements.
Future Trends: Blurring the Lines Further
Looking ahead, several trends are likely to emerge:
- Increased Use of Sustainable Materials: As environmental concerns grow, designers may increasingly incorporate recycled and innovative sustainable materials into period pieces, creating anachronisms born from necessity and ethical considerations.
- Digital Costume Design: Virtual and augmented reality could allow for the creation of costumes that are impossible to realize in the physical world, pushing the boundaries of design even further.
- Hyper-Specificity within Anachronism: Instead of broad stylistic clashes, we might see designers focusing on subtly incorrect details – a specific fabric not yet invented, a slightly altered silhouette – to create a sense of unease or disorientation.
- The Rise of ‘Neo-Historical’ Aesthetics: Designers may create entirely new historical aesthetics, blending elements from different eras and cultures to forge unique visual languages.
FAQ
Is historical accuracy in costume design completely dead?
No, it’s not. However, there’s a growing willingness to prioritize storytelling and visual impact over strict adherence to historical detail.
Why are we seeing more anachronistic costumes now?
A desire for escapism, the influence of shows like Bridgerton, and a broader trend towards creative freedom in costume design are all contributing factors.
Will this trend last?
It’s likely to evolve, but the emphasis on expressive costume design and visual storytelling is likely to remain strong.
Did you recognize?
Sandy Powell upset someone by using an art deco lace to make an Elizabethan collar, but she didn’t care – she thought it looked fine and wasn’t making a documentary.
Pro Tip: When analyzing costume design, consider not just what the clothes *seem* like, but what they *say* about the characters and the story.
What are your thoughts on the trend of anachronistic costume design? Share your opinions in the comments below! Explore more articles on film and fashion here.
d, without any additional comments or text.
[/gpt3]
