Palmyra: From Tourist Paradise to ISIS Ruins and Hope for Rebuilding

Palmyra’s Slow Rebirth: A Syrian Oasis Reclaiming Its Past

Khaldoun Al Raba, 32, remembers a bustling Palmyra. Restaurants overflowed with diners, and daily busloads of tourists arrived to explore the ancient ruins of this historic city in the Syrian Desert. That life vanished in May 2015 when ISIS seized control, prompting nearly all of the city’s 100,000 residents to flee.

A Stage for Terror

Khaldoun was among those who fled, leaving behind a life he wouldn’t recognize upon his return. ISIS quickly took control of Palmyra’s 2,000-year-old amphitheater, transforming it into a site of execution. At least 217 people were killed in and around Palmyra during the first nine days of the occupation, according to the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights, including 67 civilians, 14 of whom were children.

Videos of the killings spread rapidly. ISIS used the ancient theater as a backdrop for propaganda, publicly executing Syrian prisoners before hundreds of onlookers. They viewed the historical monuments as symbols of idolatry.

The Loss of a Guardian

Their focus extended to Khaled al-Asaad, a leading Syrian historian who had dedicated his life to preserving Palmyra’s cultural heritage. For over 40 years, he cared for the ancient site and played a key role in its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

ISIS interrogated al-Asaad for over a month, seeking the location of hidden antiquities. He refused to reveal their whereabouts. In August 2015, they beheaded the 82-year-old and displayed his body on a pillar in the city square.

Destruction and Resilience

By March 2016, Syrian and Russian forces had driven ISIS out. However, the group returned in December of the same year, destroying the amphitheater and the Temple of Baalshamin. Palmyra, a site dating back to the Neolithic period, had endured centuries of change, but the recent destruction was particularly devastating.

A Fragile Return

Today, people are slowly returning to Palmyra. Khaldoun has set up a tent near the ruins, offering food and lodging to the few tourists who venture to the site. All 30 of the city’s hotels were destroyed during the conflict. Basic infrastructure – clean water, sanitation, and restaurants – remains scarce. Despite the challenges, Khaldoun remains optimistic. “IS and the Assad regime are gone,” he says. “The future will be much better for all Syrians.”

FAQ

What is Palmyra’s historical significance?

Palmyra is an ancient city dating back to the Neolithic period, strategically located on the Silk Road and known for its unique blend of Greco-Roman and Persian influences.

What damage did ISIS inflict on Palmyra?

ISIS destroyed significant monuments, including the Temple of Baalshamin and the amphitheater, and murdered numerous civilians, including the historian Khaled al-Asaad.

Is Palmyra safe for tourists now?

While Syrian government forces control Palmyra, the region remains unstable, and travel should be undertaken with extreme caution and awareness of the ongoing security situation.

Did you know? Palmyra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing its outstanding universal value to humanity.

Explore more about the history of Palmyra here.