Paul Smith reworks his past at Milan menswear salon show | Milan fashion week

The Enduring Legacy & Evolving Future of Menswear Titans

Milan Fashion Week recently navigated a poignant shift, marking the first without Giorgio Armani’s physical presence after his passing. Yet, the show went on, a testament to the enduring power of established brands. This event, alongside strong showings from Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith, highlights a fascinating tension in the industry: honoring heritage while adapting to a rapidly changing landscape. The question isn’t just about surviving, but about how these iconic labels will shape the future of menswear.

Revisiting the Archive: A New Source of Inspiration

Paul Smith’s latest collection exemplified a compelling trend – looking backward to move forward. Smith’s decision to present a salon-style show, reminiscent of the 1970s ateliers of Chanel and Saint Laurent, wasn’t mere nostalgia. It was a deliberate statement about the value of personal connection and independent design in an increasingly corporate world. More significantly, the collection itself drew heavily from the brand’s extensive archive, with design director Sam Cotton unearthing “bloody marvellous” pieces from decades past.

This isn’t an isolated case. Brands across the spectrum are mining their histories. Levi’s, for example, has successfully reintroduced vintage cuts and washes, capitalizing on the demand for authenticity and sustainable fashion. According to a report by Edited, the resale market for vintage clothing grew 28% year-over-year in 2023, demonstrating a clear consumer appetite for pre-owned and historically-inspired pieces. This trend suggests a rejection of fast fashion and a desire for garments with a story.

The Preppy Renaissance & the Power of Lifestyle Branding

Ralph Lauren’s continued success, with an 11% sales increase in the first quarter of 2025, underscores the remarkable resurgence of preppy style. This isn’t simply about cable-knit sweaters and polo shirts; it’s about selling a complete lifestyle. Lauren has masterfully cultivated an aspirational image of American leisure, encompassing everything from clothing to home décor. The brand’s recent partnership with Team USA for the Winter Olympics further solidifies this association with a specific, desirable lifestyle.

This focus on lifestyle branding is becoming increasingly crucial. Consumers aren’t just buying clothes; they’re buying into a set of values and aspirations. Brands like Patagonia, known for its commitment to environmental activism, and A.P.C., with its understated Parisian chic, have built loyal followings by aligning their brand identity with specific lifestyles. A study by McKinsey found that 67% of consumers consider a brand’s values when making a purchase.

Navigating the Luxury Slowdown: Adaptation is Key

Despite the successes of brands like Ralph Lauren, the broader luxury market is experiencing a slowdown. Paul Smith acknowledged this, forecasting challenging results for the current year. This trend, partially attributed to post-pandemic economic shifts, necessitates a proactive approach to adaptation.

One key strategy is embracing inclusivity and accessibility. Luxury brands are increasingly experimenting with collaborations, capsule collections, and more affordable price points to reach a wider audience. Balmain’s partnership with H&M in 2015, while controversial, demonstrated the potential for reaching new customers and generating significant buzz. Another approach is focusing on personalized experiences, leveraging data analytics to tailor offerings to individual preferences. According to Bain & Company’s Luxury Study 2024, personalized marketing can increase sales by up to 15%.

The Role of the Designer: Still at the Helm

Despite collaborations and evolving market dynamics, the role of the designer remains paramount. Paul Smith’s insistence on being deeply involved in every aspect of the brand, arriving at 6 am each day, highlights the importance of a strong creative vision. While collaboration is valuable, the designer’s unique perspective and commitment to quality are essential for maintaining brand identity and driving innovation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is preppy style really making a comeback?

Yes, preppy style is experiencing a significant resurgence, driven by a desire for classic, timeless pieces and a rejection of fast fashion trends.

How important is brand history for modern consumers?

Very important. Consumers are increasingly seeking brands with a strong heritage and a compelling story, valuing authenticity and craftsmanship.

What is lifestyle branding?

Lifestyle branding involves associating a brand with a specific set of values, aspirations, and activities, creating a holistic experience for consumers.

Are luxury brands facing challenges in the current economic climate?

Yes, the luxury market is experiencing a slowdown, requiring brands to adapt through inclusivity, personalization, and innovative marketing strategies.

The future of menswear, as exemplified by these industry leaders, lies in a delicate balance between honoring the past and embracing the future. Brands that can successfully navigate this tension, by leveraging their heritage, adapting to changing consumer preferences, and maintaining a strong creative vision, will be best positioned for long-term success.

Want to learn more about the evolving landscape of fashion? Explore our articles on sustainable fashion trends and the impact of technology on the industry.