Indonesia’s ‘Tan But Chinese’: A Rising Tide of Heritage Revival
Tangerang, Java – Along the Cisadane River, a quiet cultural awakening is underway. The Benteng Chinese, or Cina Benteng, descendants of Chinese traders and local Sundanese, are actively reclaiming their unique identity. This resurgence isn’t about recreating the past, but about weaving it into the fabric of modern Indonesian life.
The ‘Tan But Chinese’ Identity: A Historical Blend
The Benteng Chinese trace their origins back centuries, with some believing connections to the voyages of Ming Dynasty admiral Zheng He. Over generations, a hybrid culture emerged, blending languages, customs, and cuisine. This created a distinct community, often navigating a complex sense of belonging. As one resident described, they are sometimes jokingly called “hitachi” – short for hitam tapi Cina, meaning “tan but Chinese.”
Walking Tours and the Rediscovery of Tangerang’s Past
For decades, the story of the Benteng Chinese remained largely unknown outside of Tangerang. Today, a novel generation is stepping forward to change that. Elsa Novia Sena, a 28-year-vintage tour guide, launched Benteng Walking Tours two years ago. These tours explore sites like Pasar Lama (Tangerang’s Old Market), a soya sauce factory, and the historic Boen Tek Bio Temple, founded in 1684 – Tangerang’s oldest Chinese place of worship.
Ms. Sena’s initiative arose from creating content on Instagram and TikTok, realizing the local story was fading. Her tours aren’t just historical recitations; they’re immersive experiences, connecting the past to everyday life. For example, she explains the origins of kecap manis, Indonesia’s sweet soy sauce, noting how local sugarcane plantations influenced its unique flavor.
Fashion as a Cultural Statement: The MAGIC Project
Beyond guided tours, cultural promoter Merry Andayani is using fashion to reinterpret Benteng Chinese heritage. Her project, MAGIC (Create A Good Impression, Closer: A Tale Woven In Fashion), collaborates with young people to create garments that blend tradition and contemporary style. Designs often incorporate elements like the kebaya encim, a traditional Peranakan blouse, with modern silhouettes.
Ms. Andayani’s work aims to showcase Benteng Chinese culture as a living identity, not just a nostalgic memory. By translating ritual elements into visual motifs, like the Sembahyang Samkai prayer ritual, she highlights the community’s beliefs and practices in a tangible way.
Navigating Identity and Cultural Preservation
The Benteng Chinese have historically faced challenges in defining their identity. Some within the broader Chinese Indonesian community question their “Chineseness” due to linguistic and physical differences. Simultaneously, they may be perceived as “too Chinese” by some indigenous Indonesians. This sense of being between worlds intensified during the 32-year rule of former president Suharto, when public expressions of Chinese culture were restricted.
However, the current revival demonstrates a strong desire to embrace and celebrate this unique heritage. The focus isn’t on choosing one identity over another, but on acknowledging and valuing the blend of cultures that defines the Benteng Chinese experience.
The Broader Trend: Heritage Tourism and Cultural Identity
The story of the Benteng Chinese reflects a broader global trend: the increasing importance of heritage tourism and cultural identity. Communities worldwide are recognizing the economic and social benefits of preserving and promoting their unique traditions.
This trend is fueled by several factors:
- Growing Interest in Authentic Experiences: Travelers are increasingly seeking authentic experiences that go beyond typical tourist attractions.
- Digital Storytelling: Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube empower individuals to share their cultural stories with a global audience.
- Community-Based Tourism: Initiatives like Ms. Sena’s walking tours demonstrate the power of community-based tourism to empower local residents and preserve cultural heritage.
Looking Ahead: Sustaining the Revival
The future of the Benteng Chinese heritage revival depends on continued efforts to document, preserve, and promote their unique culture. This includes supporting initiatives like Benteng Walking Tours and the MAGIC project, as well as fostering intergenerational dialogue and education.
The story of Tangerang’s ‘tan but Chinese’ is a testament to the resilience of cultural identity and the power of community-led initiatives. It’s a reminder that heritage isn’t just about the past; it’s about shaping a vibrant and inclusive future.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Who are the Benteng Chinese?
A: The Benteng Chinese are Indonesian descendants of Chinese traders who settled along the Cisadane River in Tangerang centuries ago and married local Sundanese women.
Q: What does “Cina Benteng” mean?
A: “Cina Benteng” translates to “people of the fort” in Indonesian, referencing the Dutch fort that once stood in Tangerang.
Q: How is Benteng Chinese culture unique?
A: It’s a hybrid culture blending Chinese and Sundanese languages, customs, and cuisine, creating a distinct identity.
Q: Where can I learn more about the Benteng Chinese?
A: You can follow Elsa Novia Sena on TikTok and Instagram, or explore the YouTube channel.
Did you know? The Benteng Chinese often jokingly refer to themselves as “hitachi” – short for hitam tapi Cina, meaning “tan but Chinese.”
Pro Tip: When visiting Tangerang, consider taking a Benteng Walking Tour to experience the local culture firsthand.
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