Ménilmontant: Discovering Paris’s Last Bohemian Enclave
On a hill between Belleville’s Chinatown and Père Lachaise cemetery, Ménilmontant retains a distinctly local character. Once a rural hamlet, then an industrial hub, this Parisian quartier is a vibrant mix of working-class roots and a strong North African diaspora. Despite being named one of Time Out’s World’s Coolest Neighbourhoods for 2025, it remains largely off the tourist trail, offering a glimpse of a disappearing Paris.
A Culinary Journey Through Ménilmontant
Dining in Ménilmontant is affordable and diverse. La Cantine des Hommes Libres, a retro bistrot, offers traditional Algerian specialities like tikourbabine alongside classic French dishes like blanquette de veau, with a daily plate costing around €11.50. A glass of organic wine is just €2. The owner, Monsieur Abdelkrim, established the Cantine 20 years ago to share Algerian culture through cuisine.
Chez les Deux Amis Brocante is another popular spot, serving vegetarian meze, crispy dürum, and sweet baklava. Run by chef Beyaz Balta, a Kurdish refugee, the diner is a testament to the welcoming spirit of the neighbourhood, with a predominantly local clientele. Rue Sorbier offers a selection of cafes, wine stores, bakeries, and épiceries. L’Entrepot serves classic brasserie fare – steak frites, confit de canard – in a charming, flea-market-decorated setting, reminiscent of the days when Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf lived nearby.
Local Bars and Nightlife
For a taste of local life, La Pétanque, with its sunny terrace overlooking the church, is a popular choice. L’Express de Paris, on Boulevard de Ménilmontant, is bustling from morning coffee to late-night cocktails. Demain c’est Loin offers tapas, rum punch, and a free jukebox, even as Chez Hubert is a lively sports and music bar, especially during major sporting events.
Cultural Hotspots and Artistic Expression
Rue Boyer is the heart of Ménilmontant’s cultural scene. Galerie Ménil’8, run by the Artistes de Ménilmontant association, showcases avant-garde photography, sculpture, and video. The association also hosts an annual Open Door festival in late September, with over 60 venues participating. La Maroquinerie, housed in a former leather goods factory, hosts concerts and club nights. La Bellevilloise, a historic self-help workers’ co-operative founded in 1877, is now a cultural centre with a program including film screenings, queer disco, jazz brunches, and cabaret, and boasts a rooftop terrace with panoramic views.
Local musician Thomas Ménard notes that the neighbourhood’s social housing helps preserve its multi-ethnic roots and community spirit, ensuring it doesn’t become overrun by hipsters. Venues like Scenobar, Les Apaches, and Lou Pascalou provide stages for local indie bands, slam poets, and DJs.
Shopping and Local Markets
The street market on Boulevard de Belleville, held every Tuesday and Friday morning, is ideal for fresh produce. Rue des Narcisses and Vintage 77 offer retro fashion and decor bargains. Cracki is a record shop with its own independent music label, while Dilia La Cave specialises in natural wines.
Don’t Miss These Landmarks
The Église Notre-Dame de la Croix de Ménilmontant is a prominent landmark and a focal point for the local community. Its forecourt hosts concerts and movie screenings during the Festival des Canotiers in June and the Festival Septembre Indien. A walk along the rewilded La Petite Ceinture, an abandoned railway line, offers a unique perspective. Exploring the labyrinthine Villa de l’Ermitage and Cité Leroy reveals utopian worker’s cottages dating back to the 19th century.
Where to Stay
Accommodation options in Ménilmontant are limited due to its off-the-beaten-path location. Le Bellevue offers spacious self-check-in apartments from €100.
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