Luxury watchmakers are pivoting toward compact proportions, prioritizing ergonomic wearability and balanced aesthetics over the oversized designs that dominated the market for decades. Brands including Blancpain, IWC, Bvlgari, and Tudor have recently debuted sub-40mm models, signaling a shift toward versatile, daily-wear timepieces that blend classic heritage with modern engineering.
The Rise of Compact Luxury: Blancpain and Bvlgari’s Technical Shift
Blancpain has expanded its Villeret collection with a 38mm Ultraplate model, a move the brand describes as a commitment to maintaining the elegance of a dress watch despite the industry’s recent focus on sports models. According to Blancpain, the design features a slimmed-down bezel and leaf-shaped hands, designed to optimize the watch’s proportions on the wrist. The model utilizes an in-house automatic caliber with an 80-hour power reserve, balancing thinness with daily practicality.
Bvlgari has taken a more aggressive technical approach with the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37mm. As noted in product disclosures from the brand, Bvlgari did not simply shrink the existing 40mm design; they engineered an entirely new platform. The watch features a dedicated movement, the BVF100, which measures just 2.35mm in thickness. By reducing the movement volume by approximately 20% compared to its larger predecessor, Bvlgari maintains the watch’s architectural silhouette while catering to wearers with smaller wrists.
IWC and Tudor: Redefining the Sports Watch Identity
The trend toward smaller dimensions is not limited to dress watches. IWC recently added an “Aqua Blue” dial to its Ingenieur Automatic 35 collection. The 35mm case, which is 9.4mm thick, retains the signature functional bezel screws and H-link integrated bracelet associated with the Gerald Genta-designed aesthetic. IWC reports that the piece is powered by the automatic 47110 caliber, offering a 42-hour power reserve and 100m of water resistance, framing the watch as a daily-wear luxury sports piece.
Tudor is also leaning into this movement with the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue.” At 37mm, the watch draws inspiration from the brand’s 1954 debut diver. Tudor has updated the model with a sand-textured blue dial and a mirror-polished bezel, removing the minute scale to achieve a cleaner look. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified MT5400 movement, which provides a 70-hour power reserve and includes a T-fit clasp for on-the-fly bracelet adjustments.
Comparison: Compact vs. Traditional Dimensions
| Model | Case Size | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate | 38mm | 80-hour power reserve |
| IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 | 35mm | Integrated bracelet |
| Bvlgari Octo Finissimo | 37mm | 2.35mm thick movement |
| Tudor Black Bay 54 | 37mm | T-fit adjustable clasp |
Frequently Asked Questions
- Why are watch brands making smaller watches?
Brands are responding to a shift in consumer preference toward comfort, better wrist proportions, and the versatility of watches that can be worn with both formal and casual attire. - Is a 37mm watch considered unisex?
Yes. Modern industry trends suggest that 35mm to 38mm cases are increasingly marketed as unisex, as they fit a wider variety of wrist sizes comfortably. - Does a smaller case mean fewer features?
Not necessarily. As seen with the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo and Tudor Black Bay 54, brands are investing in specialized, smaller-scale movements that maintain high power reserves and technical specifications.
Are you moving toward smaller timepieces in your own collection, or do you still prefer the presence of a larger case? Share your thoughts in the comments below or subscribe to our newsletter for more deep dives into watch industry trends.
