Italian designer Alessandro Michele presented his fifth catwalk show for Valentino during a Paris Fashion Week event at the Sainte-Geneviève library, marking his thirtieth month in the top creative job. The runway opened with a series of satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts in gauzy, see-through fabrics, styled alongside items smothered in glimmering beads and trimmed with feathers.
Michele has rolled out 10 collections and four catwalk shows since taking over the brand, moving at a fast pace in the fashion industry following his seven-year tenure as creative director at Gucci. The presentation leaned heavily into a debauched partying mood for both womenswear and menswear, featuring creased trousers, silky boxers peaking out above waistbands, and mis-buttoned double-breasted blazers. “I like playing with the idea of glamour in the wrong way,” Michele said, according to The Guardian.
Valentino faces declining revenue amid shifting luxury trends
Michele’s opulent outlook arrives during a turbulent luxury market where Valentino’s revenue declined 15% to €1.12bn in 2025. His maximalist approach has occasionally sat out of step with the broader vanilla era of fashion, though the reign of quiet luxury is quietly coming to a close as personality dressing rises in prominence.
The brand is controlled by Mayhoola, which owns 70% of the company, while French luxury group Kering holds the remaining 30% with options to increase its stake to 100% before the end of the decade. Speaking after the show, Michele described sensuality as part of the vocabulary of the brand, having pared back his signature voluminous silhouettes to focus instead on exposing skin.
Michele targets red carpet attention in turnaround strategy
A central pillar of Michele’s turnaround strategy for Valentino is red carpet dressing, designed to capture attention as internet users dissect looks in 360 degrees.
The show also referenced the brand’s founder, Valentino Garavani, who famously hated the casualisation of fashion and recoiled at flip-flops and shorts. Michele played against these historical codes by introducing deep V-cut cotton vest tops and brightly coloured baseball caps emblazoned with “Villain Teen.” Michele, who wore a green version of the cap during the event, noted that the phrase sounded like “Villain-Teen-O” and offered a chic way to signify being outside the rules in Italian.
Common Questions About the Valentino Show
Where was the Valentino Spring presentation held?
The fashion show took place at the Sainte-Geneviève library in Paris during Paris Fashion Week.
How long has Alessandro Michele been at Valentino?
Michele has held the top creative job at Valentino for 30 months, during which he has rolled out 10 collections and five catwalk shows.
What financial figures were reported for Valentino in 2025?
Valentino’s revenue declined 15% to €1.12bn in 2025 amid a turbulent luxury market.
Who owns a stake in Valentino alongside Mayhoola?
Mayhoola controls 70% of the company, while the French luxury group Kering holds the remaining 30% with options to increase its stake to 100% before the end of the decade.