Appalachia, located at 71 Nile Street near Old Street, is bringing regional Scots-Irish mountain cuisine to London through chef Ali Borer. The restaurant specializes in traditional preservation methods—smoking, pickling, and “pot liquor”—serving a menu that includes butter-brined half chicken, miso grits, and fried green tomato salads.
Why is Appalachian cuisine emerging in the London dining scene?
London’s culinary landscape has largely ignored the specific flavors of the eastern United States’ mountain regions until now. According to reports on the opening, most British perceptions of Appalachia were limited to pop-culture depictions like the film Deliverance or the movie O Brother, Where Art Thou?
Chef Ali Borer, who previously worked at Smoking Goat and Guy Ritchie’s Lore of the Land pub, is filling this gap by focusing on the “food of yesteryear.” This style of cooking is defined by necessity; settlers in the sparse Appalachian region preserved almost every edible item they could find. This “waste nothing” philosophy manifests today in dishes like tongue and head skewers with an oyster sauce glaze.
How does Appalachia blend tradition with modern Shoreditch trends?
The restaurant operates as a hybrid of a rustic saloon and a modern “hip indie spot.” While the upstairs area is a reclaimed old saloon bar where guests watch Borer prepare cornbread madeleines, the downstairs space is a dedicated whiskey and cocktail bar called Lowcountry.
Lowcountry focuses on the coastal regions of South Carolina, offering fat-washed spirits. Examples include a “fat fashioned” made with bacon fat-washed bourbon and maple syrup, or a banana pudding sazerac utilizing brown butter-washed rye and absinthe. To cater to the growing non-alcoholic trend, the drinks list includes Jörg Geiger’s fruit fermentations, Saicho sparkling teas, and olive lemonade.
The Menu: Traditional Staples vs. Modern Riffs
The menu is a single, seasonally changing sheet. Borer integrates high-end ingredients with “hillbilly” staples:
- The Star: Butter-brined half chicken served with miso grits and black pepper gravy.
- Vegetarian Option: Fried green tomato salad on a pickled ginger gravy base.
- The Twist: A banana pudding choux bun featuring vanilla custard, Biscoff crumb, and salted caramel popping candy—a Shoreditch interpretation of a Southern church potluck classic.
What are the operational details for visitors?
Located on the borders of Shoreditch and Hackney, the restaurant is tucked away on Nile Street. Because it is hidden, it doesn’t maintain a public phone number for bookings.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Address | 71 Nile Street, London N1 |
| Lunch Hours | Saturday only, 12:00 PM – 2:30 PM |
| Dinner Hours | Wednesday – Saturday, 5:00 PM – 9:30 PM |
| Average Cost | From £40 per head (à la carte) |
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Appalachia a theme restaurant?
No. According to reports, it is a serious attempt at regional Appalachian cooking rather than a novelty or joke bar.
What is a “kilt salad”?
It is a dish where hot bacon fat is poured over greens to wilt them quickly, a technique rooted in traditional mountain cooking.
Are there options for non-drinkers?
Yes, the Lowcountry bar offers a comprehensive non-alcoholic list including sparkling teas, fruit fermentations, and an alcohol-free paloma.
What is the “hillbilly loaf”?
It is a glossy-topped bread served with a quenelle of cultured apple butter.
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