Headline: The True Origin and Evolution of the Cesar Salad
When we order a Cesar salad in Bulgaria, we typically receive a bowl filled with green lettuce, chicken breast, and croutons. However, variations exist that might puzzle even the salad’s inventor. Mayonnaise dressing, often sold as ‘Cesar Dressing’ in plastic bottles, or additions like parmesan, eggs, prosciutto, or cherry tomatoes aren’t exactly traditional.
You might think Cesar Cardini himself would raise an eyebrow. Born in Italy and fleeing to the U.S., only to settle in Tijuana, Mexico, Cardini was the mastermind behind this iconic dish. His reason for leaving the U.S.? The Prohibition, or ‘The Dry Spell’, led to a ban on alcohol sales.
In Tijuana, Cardini opened a restaurant that became a hit with American tourists seeking illicit drinks and entertainment. On July 4, 1924, Cardini created his signature salad. When supplies ran out mid-service, he improvised with whatever was left: romaine lettuce, olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, soft-boiled eggs, and croutons. Served family-style, each diner added parmesan cheese and their choice of dressing components to their lettuce leaves.
Cesar Cardini’s salad became an overnight sensation. A few years later, his brother Alex tweaked the recipe, tearing the romaine into halves or quarters, adding anchovies to the dressing (which was now made with raw eggs and olive oil), and piling on croutons and parmesan. The anchovies, Alex believed, added umami and interest to the dish.
The Cesar Salad spread fast. American tourists flocked to Tijuana for booze and Cardini’s salad. Celebrities like Julia Child‘s family even made Tijuana one of their destination stops during vacations. Child, in her book "My Life in France," recounts this first experience at the Cardini restaurant: "one of my early memories of going to a restaurant is going to Tijuana with my parents… who were very excited about having lunch at the restaurant of Cesar Cardini."
Eventually, the Cesar Salad hopped from Mexico to America and Europe. Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, demanded her version come with finely chopped romaine. By the 1940s, U.S. sreeeded versions, like the ‘Double-Cesar’ at the Ambassador Hotel in Los Angeles, emerged. Success stories like the ‘Yorkshire Salad’ in London showcased the salad’s international appeal.
Today, we enjoy countless variations of the Cesar Salad. Cardini’s original dressing, now commercially bottled, remains a constant. But don’t be surprised if you see mayo-infused alternatives or exotic add-ons. After all, innovation is nothing new to the history of the Cesar Salad.
Julia Child’s Cesar Salad Recipe (Adapted from "My Life in France")
Ingredients:
- 18-24 romaine lettuce leaves
- 1 cup croutons
- 1 large garlic clove
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 1 large egg
- 1 lemon
- Salt, Worcestershire sauce, parmesan
Instructions:
- Separate romaine leaves from the core, wash and dry them.
- Toss croutons with minced garlic, salt, and olive oil. Toast in a dry skillet over medium heat until crispy.
- Soft-boil an egg: prick the fat end with a sharp needle, submerge in barely simmering water for 1 minute.
- In a large bowl, combine romaine and 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Toss gently.
- Top the salad with croutons, parmesan, and a soft-boiled egg, cut in half. Serve immediately.
- Optional: Add anchovies for extra umami.
