Hermès designed its spring and summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear collection around the concept of air to combat severe global heatwaves, presenting lightweight garments at the Garde Républicaine in Paris. Artistic director Nadège Vanhée created sheer parkas, perforated suede jackets, and open knit dresses that functioned as built-in cooling systems during an uncomfortably hot runway show.
Heat Waves and the Shape of Air at the Paris Runway
Nadège Vanhée traveled through Los Angeles, Asia, and Europe ahead of the collection, experiencing brutally hot weather that directly inspired her designs. The designer built the wardrobe around the physical properties of air, utilizing materials like denim, calfskin, and silk to construct light silhouettes. The presentation took place inside the bright white interior of the historic cavalry barracks at the Garde Républicaine, where guests including Sofía Vergara and Emmy Rossum sat front row. Transport delays caused by Pride road closures left attendees waiting in a stifling tent, forcing many guests to fan themselves with paper programs.
Designer transforms utilitarian staples into airy garments
Vanhée reinterpreted utilitarian staples into airy garments equipped with functional modifications for high temperatures. Traditional parkas were transformed into sheer dresses and skirts fitted with zippers to adjust their length. Vanhée also introduced swooshing pleats on a black leather blazer inspired by ceiling fan blades, alongside chocolate suede skirts backed with yellow silk and open knit dresses resembling fishing nets worn over bra tops. Trousers and coats featured zipper systems capable of altering silhouettes from full-legged to slim, while superfine calfskin jackets and silk pongee parkas were designed for effortless movement.
Vibrant Color Palettes and Lighter Leather Accessories
The collection shifted away from the darker equestrian tones seen in previous seasons by incorporating sunny neutrals and vibrant hues. The presentation opened with creamy whites before transitioning into poppy orange, tomato red, scarlet, chocolate brown, slate, taxicab yellow, and olive green. For accessories, the runway featured capri-style strappy sandals, flat leather boots with whipstitched moccasin details, and small bucket bags with fishnet elements. Models also wore thick leather bracelets and chunky cuff bracelets, while belts traversed waists and integrated into sculptural corset styles.
Inspirations and venue details for the fashion show
What inspired the spring ready-to-wear collection?
The collection was inspired by consecutive heatwaves in Europe and global travel, prompting Nadège Vanhée to design lightweight clothing around the theme of air.
Where did the fashion show take place?
The presentation was held inside the historic headquarters and cavalry barracks of the Garde Républicaine in Paris.
What notable celebrities attended the presentation?
Actresses Sofía Vergara and Emmy Rossum sat in the front row for the runway show.
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