The 16th-century Cordouan Lighthouse, standing 68 meters tall at the meeting point of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary, is a unique place of work for its keepers. Sébastien and Thomas, two of the lighthouse’s guardians – nicknamed “the Versailles of the sea” and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2021 – describe their daily lives as a privilege, overseeing this exceptional structure.
A Life Apart
As the tourist season begins, the keepers greet visitors at the base of the semaphore under a spring sun. Employed by the Smiddest from April to October, they also act as guides and maintain the monument, whose exterior is constantly battered by the elements. Sébastien, the most recent addition to the team of five keepers, is a former firefighter who repeatedly applied for the position, stating, “It corresponds to my ideal job: outdoors, in the middle of the sea with a bit of human contact, a bit of solitude.” He added that maintaining a 400-year-old monument is a constant learning experience.
A Unique Work-Life Balance
The keepers work on the lighthouse for a week or two at a time, with equivalent time off ashore. The Smiddest ensures that no two keepers remain together for more than fifteen days, to maintain a positive working environment. Sébastien, a father of three, acknowledges the need to “make up for lost time” with his family after his stints at the lighthouse. He shared that his wife encouraged him to accept the position, saying she didn’t want him to regret not taking it when he reached 70.
Life at the lighthouse fosters camaraderie, with keepers becoming friends over games of darts and ping-pong. Thomas, a keeper of ten years, describes life ashore as “tiring” compared to the peaceful rhythm of the lighthouse, where time seems to slow down.
Preserving a Historic Landmark
The keepers are responsible for the upkeep of the lighthouse, from maintaining the oak flooring – requiring the use of special shoes to prevent damage – to protecting the structure from the elements. They prioritize energy efficiency, collecting and filtering rainwater, and using environmentally friendly cleaning products. They also proactively identify and report any structural issues, such as crumbling stones, to ensure the monument’s longevity.
The keepers also identify time for personal pursuits, such as sculpting with limestone from restoration work and fishing for sea bass. They enjoy sharing their knowledge and passion for the lighthouse with visitors, who often ask about the structure’s ability to withstand storms, the number of steps to the top, and the challenges of winter life at the lighthouse.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long has the Cordouan Lighthouse been a UNESCO World Heritage site?
The Cordouan Lighthouse was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2021.
What is the role of the Smiddest in relation to the lighthouse?
The Smiddest employs the lighthouse keepers from April to October, and is responsible for the overall management of the site.
How long have people been continuously guarding the Cordouan Lighthouse?
People have been continuously guarding the Cordouan Lighthouse for over 400 years.
What aspects of life at the Cordouan Lighthouse do you find most compelling, and how do you think the role of lighthouse keepers will evolve in the future?
