The visual language of haute couture, shaped decisively by master photographer Irving Penn over a six-decade collaboration with Vogue, forms the core of an upcoming retrospective exhibition titled “Penn & Fashion” at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, scheduled to run from Sept. 30 to Jan. 17, 2027, according to show organizers.
Tracing Haute Couture Through the Decades
The exhibition unfolds chronologically to chart the evolution of style documentation. According to show organizers, the display opens with 1950s haute couture captured on notable muses like Lisa Fonssagrives, whom Penn married in 1950, and Jean Patchett. The narrative then progresses into the 1970s, featuring Ungaro and Courrèges designs, before shifting to the 1980s dominance of Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld.
As tastes shifted toward the close of the 20th century, Penn’s lens turned to sumptuous garments by John Galliano, the opulence of Christian Lacroix, and dramatic feathered pieces for Chanel. These works ran alongside striking beauty images published in Vogue throughout the 1990s and 2000s, documenting a transformative era in editorial fashion imagery.
The Issey Miyake Collaboration
A central highlight of the Paris exhibition is a dedicated focus on Penn’s 13-year collaboration with Japanese designer Issey Miyake. According to archive notes, Miyake’s sculptural creations naturally complemented the elegant simplicity of Penn’s photographic style, producing iconic images such as the 1991 piece Issey Miyake Fashion: Face Covered with Hair.
The visual dialogue between photographer and designer demonstrated how architectural garments could be rendered as pure form.
Institutional Lenders and Archives
The retrospective draws primarily from the holdings of the Maison Européenne de la Photographie and the Nicola Erni Collection located in Zug. Additional support for “Penn & Fashion” includes numerous high-profile loans provided by The Irving Penn Foundation and the Miyake Issey Foundation, ensuring rare prints and archival materials are accessible to the public.
Frequently Asked Questions
When does the “Penn & Fashion” exhibition run in Paris?
The exhibition runs from Sept. 30 to Jan. 17, 2027, at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie.
Which collections provided works for the exhibition?
According to the exhibition organizers, materials are drawn mainly from the MEP and Nicola Erni collections, alongside loans from The Irving Penn Foundation and the Miyake Issey Foundation.
Who are some of the designers featured in the retrospective?
The exhibition features designs by Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Ungaro, Courrèges, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Chanel, and Issey Miyake.
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