Max Mara’s Strategy to Win Over China’s Luxury Consumers

Max Mara recently debuted a collection in Shanghai that integrates traditional Chinese design elements, signaling a shift in how Western luxury brands approach the Chinese market. By incorporating elements like pankou buttons and cheongsam silhouettes into its signature aesthetic, the Italian fashion house is moving away from Western-centric design to align with guochao—a rising trend of cultural pride among Chinese consumers, according to creative director Ian Griffiths.

Why is the ‘Guochao’ movement reshaping luxury fashion?

The guochao, or “national wave,” represents a fundamental shift in consumer behavior where style is increasingly tied to cultural identity rather than simple brand prestige. According to Ian Griffiths, brands that treat China merely as an “ATM” for sales are increasingly falling out of favor. Instead, successful luxury houses are now focusing on resonance. Unlike historical trends, guochao is not passive patriotism; it is a fashion-forward movement driven by Gen Z consumers who want their heritage reflected in global luxury, as noted in reports on the brand’s recent Long Museum exhibition.

How are brands avoiding cultural appropriation?

Navigating the line between cultural homage and appropriation requires extensive local consultation, according to Griffiths. Max Mara, which has operated in China for 33 years and maintains 27 boutiques in Shanghai alone, engaged in a multi-stage consultation process before finalizing its latest designs. Griffiths explicitly stated that “it isn’t good enough just to say that we didn’t intend to cause offence,” emphasizing that the brand’s long-standing presence in the region provides the necessary context to interpret Chinese aesthetic codes without resorting to cliché.

What does the shift toward localized casting signal?

The decision to feature an almost exclusively local cast of models serves as a strategic move to validate the brand’s commitment to its Chinese audience. This follows a broader industry trend of moving away from one-size-fits-all global marketing campaigns. By aligning its brand identity with Chinese female ambition—as seen in the recent staging of the play Prima Facie—Max Mara is positioning itself as a partner in the wearer’s professional life, rather than an external status symbol.

Are fashion trends becoming obsolete?

The traditional concept of a “seasonal trend” is losing its influence, according to Griffiths. He argues that fashion no longer dictates a singular look, noting that the modern consumer prefers to curate their own style. This shift is reflected in Max Mara’s recent collections, which have moved away from the “dusty” reputation the brand once held, choosing instead to focus on an “esoteric feminist history syllabus” that includes figures like mathematician Émilie du Châtelet and strategist Matilde di Canossa.

Frequently Asked Questions

• What is the guochao trend? It is a Chinese consumer movement that prioritizes cultural identity and local resonance in fashion, moving beyond traditional Western-centric luxury.
• Why is Max Mara focusing on China? With Chinese consumers accounting for a quarter of global luxury spending, the brand is deepening its 33-year relationship with the market through localized design.
• How do brands avoid appropriation in design? Industry experts suggest that extensive local consultation and a long-term, established presence—rather than one-off collections—are essential to avoiding cultural missteps.

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