Perfectly Good: A Gym for Kindness, Contrast, and Reflection

by Chief Editor

Title: Contraste Milan: A Culinary Revolution Two Years in the Making

In the heart of Milan, the gastronomic landscape has been forever transformed by the bold and innovative culinary journey of Contraste, the brainchild of Matias Perdomo, Simon Press, and Andrea Piras. Two years ago, they embarked on a daring venture, introducing a second menu, "Riflessioni", which has since become a game-changer in the world of fine dining.

Riflessioni, an audacious exploration of flavors and textures, has taken the culinary scene by storm. With 30% of diners opting for this menu, it’s clear that Contraste’s fearless approach to gastronomy is resonating with food enthusiasts. Here are four key aspects that set Riflessioni apart and make Contraste a must-visit destination for food connoisseurs:

1. Audacity in Abbinamenti

Contraste’s culinary audacity is most evident in the daring combinations of ingredients that make up each dish. From cachi and oysters to triglie and roses, the kitchen team challenges conventional wisdom, creating harmonious marriages between familiar elements and unexpected pairings. The result is a symphony of flavors that transcends the visual appeal often prioritized in today’s Instagram-driven food culture.

2. Equilibrium in Cucina

In Riflessioni, every element on the plate is given equal importance, defying the traditional hierarchy of ‘product-contorno-salsa’. Each ingredient is meticulously balanced, creating a harmonious ensemble where no single component dominates. As Simon Press puts it, "Riflessioni is a triumph of democratic cuisine."

3. The New Pasta

Perdomo and Press, with their international perspectives, reexamine Italian culinary traditions with fresh eyes. In Riflessioni, pasta is not merely a side dish but a central element, appearing in both the opening and closing courses. This challenges the conventional pasta-course sequence and invites guests to question their assumptions about Italian cuisine.

4. Cibo e Vino: A Symphony

At Contraste, wine is not an afterthought but an integral part of the dining experience. The sommelier team, led by Stefano Cavaterra, works in harmony with the kitchen, creating pairings that amplify, contrast, or complement each dish. Notably, some dishes, like the iconic "Pane e Vino", are even inspired by the wines they accompany.

Menu Riflessioni (€180, excluding wines)

  • Luppolo, pompelmo rosa, semi di basilico, fusillone e parmigiano
    A pasta course to kickstart the meal, with every ingredient carefully balanced to create a harmonious symphony of flavors.

  • Ostrica, caco vaniglia e champignon
    A playful combination of oysters, grilled cacao vanilla, and a champignon pil pil, served with a pairing cocktail of water and mushrooms.

  • Mandorla, avocado, lardo di Colonnata e cavolo di Bruxelles
    A captivating dish that marries the crunch of mandorla with the creaminess of avocado and the richness of lardo, balanced by the bitterness of Brussels sprouts.

  • Calamaro, cime di rapa, nocciole e foie gras
    A hearty calamari dish that stands up to the intense flavors of foie gras and nocciole, with cime di rapa adding a touch of bitterness.

  • Triglia, rose e prugne umeboshi
    A stunning presentation of triglia, accompanied by a rose-infused consommé and a hibiscus cocktail, creating a floral and acidic symphony.

  • Trippa, spugnole, melograno e barbabietola
    A wild and earthy dish that combines trippa and spugnole with the sweetness of melograno and the minerality of barbabietola.

  • Arachidi, tendini, caviale, frutto della passione e arrosto
    A horizontal dish where each ingredient plays its part, from the rich, tender meat to the crunch of arachidi and the saltiness of caviale.

  • Pane e vino
    The signature dish of Riflessioni, where the flavors of a Cabernet Franc wine are artfully replicated in three distinct forms: the wine itself, a wine-soaked babà, and a second glass capturing the wine’s spicy notes.

  • Fegato di vitello, kimchi, lavanda e confetto di pinolo
    A masterful play on traditional fegato alla veneziana, elevated with the addition of kimchi, lavender broth, and a pinolo confetto.

  • Luppolo, kiwi, topinambur e colombaccio
    A challenging dish that harmoniously blends the bitterness of luppolo, the acidity of kiwi, the earthiness of topinambur, and the richness of colombaccio.

  • Capra, cocco e senape
    A bold combination of goat meat, coconut, and senape, where the common fibrosity of the goat and coconut creates a unique dining experience.

  • Zucca, litchis e guanciale
    A creative take on zucca, transformed through a calcic bath to create a crispy exterior and soft interior, served with a gelato di grasso.

  • Midollo, strachitunt, miele, shiso e mandorle
    A harmonious blend of elements that might otherwise clash, with the Strachitunt cheese rendered grattugiabile through the use of liquid nitrogen, balanced by the sweetness of miele and shiso.

  • Porcini, fragole e dulce de leche
    A daring combination of seasonal opposites, with porcini and fragole united by the earthiness of an agua de remolacha and the sweetness of dulce de leche.

  • Caviale di pasta aglio, olio, peperoncino e cioccolato invecchiato
    A bold experiment in pasta caviale, aged in a caciotta of water and flour and then sferificated, served with an Italian-inspired condimento of aglio, olio, peperoncino, and aged chocolate.

  • Torta di rose
    A delightful conclusion to the Riflessioni menu, a torta di rose that has become an institution at Contraste.

Contraste’s Riflessioni menu is more than just a collection of dishes; it’s a testament to the power of audacity, equilibrium, and innovation in the world of gastronomy. As the restaurant continues to evolve, one thing is certain: Contraste remains a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a truly exceptional dining experience.

You may also like

Leave a Comment