Irish designer Simone Rocha staged her spring/summer runway show at London’s Old Bailey, blending heavy layers with exposed underwear and sheer dresses inside the Central Criminal Court, according to recent fashion week reports. The collection, titled ‘I Was Trying To Love You’, marked a departure for the designer, who is known for concealing bodies beneath tulle, tailoring, and exaggerated skirts.
Simone Rocha Brings Vulnerability to the Old Bailey
Models walked through the marble halls of London’s Central Criminal Court wearing sheer dresses, open leather jackets, and exposed undergarments, according to show coverage. Rocha stated backstage that she deliberately sought a more vulnerable aesthetic. “Sometimes I can be very layered, and I can really put clothes on top of clothes; it’s a very protective thing, and I wanted to be this slightly more vulnerable,” she explained, as reported from the event.
One notable look featured a black leather jacket with a plunging neckline extending almost to the waist, adorned with oversized leather roses and worn with matching trousers and no visible inner layers. Another ensemble paired a sheer black dress embroidered with floral motifs over red underwear, while a cream jacket with a massive white floral collar was styled with red briefs decorated with fabric roses, according to event details.
Pro Tip: When analyzing runway collections, look for the tension between a designer’s signature aesthetic—such as Rocha’s traditional feminine frills—and their experimental departures, like contrasting bare skin with heavy tailoring.
Exploring Contrasts Between Setting and Style
Guests seated along the marble tiles watched models emerge through imposing archways past stone carvings and statues, creating a deliberate contrast with the serious criminal trials typically held in the building. Rocha noted that her inspiration partly stemmed from the discovery of Caravaggio’s painting The Taking of Christ, which spent years unrecognized in a Dublin drawing room. “I just thought what’s the most beautiful thing in the most unobvious place and I wanted to put that into each garment,” she said.
The collection retained familiar signatures such as oversized roses framing the upper body, rounded skirts, and fitted bodices. However, Rocha experimented with how these details interacted with bare skin. By exposing undergarments, leaving jackets open, and rolling up cuffs, the designer aimed to make the garments feel personal and lived-in rather than rigidly arranged, according to her backstage remarks.
Did you know? Simone Rocha studied at Central Saint Martins under the late designer Louise Wilson, building a globally recognized label that counts celebrities like Rihanna and Keira Knightley among its wearers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where was Simone Rocha’s collection shown?
The spring/summer show took place inside London’s Central Criminal Court, commonly known as the Old Bailey.
What was the theme of the collection?
Titled ‘I Was Trying To Love You’, the collection explored vulnerability, personal style, and a stripped-back approach to femininity by pairing traditional signature florals with exposed underwear and open jackets.
Who are some notable figures who wear Simone Rocha designs?
The designer’s clothes have been worn by high-profile figures including Rihanna and Keira Knightley.
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