Tailored for All? Uneasy Truths About Marketing Gender Fluid Fashion

The Asymmetry of the “Fluid” Trend

For years, the fashion industry has pivoted toward “gender-fluid” collections, with major players like Gucci, Marc Jacobs, and Nordstrom leading the charge. On the surface, these moves signal a new era of inclusivity. However, recent research suggests that the reality is far more complex.

Maren Hoff, an assistant professor at Harvard Business School, and Silvia Bellezza of Columbia Business School have uncovered a striking asymmetry in how these trends evolve. Their research, published in the Journal of Consumer Research, reveals that gender-fluidity isn’t a two-way street. Instead, it overwhelmingly flows from masculinity toward femininity.

This means that while products are marketed as “for everyone,” they often originate in masculine styles and are adopted most readily by women and non-binary consumers. This phenomenon is known as “symbolic consumption,” where individuals use clothing, names, and tastes to negotiate their status and belonging within a society.

Why Women Lead the Shift Toward Masculine Styles

The drive toward gender-fluidity is often fueled by a perceived power imbalance. According to Hoff’s findings, women and non-binary people are generally less fearful of negative reactions and more aware of the “male advantage” than men are.

In professional environments, this manifests as a strategic choice. It is often viewed as less risky for a woman to adopt masculine markers—such as wearing a suit vest to work—than it is for a man to adopt feminine markers, like wearing dangly earrings.

Essentially, women may use masculine-coded styles to assimilate with the traditionally powerful gender, as these traits are frequently rewarded in corporate hierarchies. This suggests that “inclusive” trends can quietly reinforce existing power dynamics rather than dismantling them.

The Future of the Workplace Dress Code

The evolution of professional attire is closely tied to the traits a company rewards. Traditionally, assertiveness and competition—traits coded as masculine—have been the gold standard for success.

However, a shift is occurring. Research indicates that men feel more comfortable embracing gender-fluid fashion in workplace contexts that prize “feminine” traits, such as empathy and collaboration. As companies redefine success to include these collaborative skills, the social risk for men to dress more fluidly decreases.

For business leaders, the path forward involves scrutinizing which cultural signals are being elevated. True progress requires a shift in the underlying value system of the organization, not just a relaxation of the dress code.

Strategic Implications for Inclusive Marketing

For marketers and designers, the challenge is to move beyond the “gender-neutral” label, which can be a default that isn’t actually neutral. A 2023 report found that 36% of US consumers have already purchased clothing outside traditional gender categories, showing a significant market appetite for fluidity.

To create genuinely balanced collections, brands should consider the following strategies:

• Balance the Influence: Ensure collections aren’t just masculine styles tweaked for women, but a 50-50 split between traditionally male and female styles.
• Challenge Gender Associations: Recognize that everything from sports cars to drinks carries gender connotations. Actively challenging these can prevent the reinforcement of entrenched power systems.
• Reduce Perceived Risk: Use marketing to frame gender-fluidity as a tool for empowerment and boldness rather than just a trend.

For more on how cultural change shapes consumer behavior, you can explore the research profiles at Harvard Business School.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between gender-fluid, unisex, and androgyny?
Based on Google search data analysis, gender-fluidity is a gradual shift over time. It differs from “gender bending” (adopting products designed for the opposite sex), “unisex” (designed for both genders from the start), and “androgyny” (combining elements of both genders in a single product or name).

Is gender-fluid fashion only for the LGBTQIA+ community?
No. While often associated with that community, research indicates that gender-fluid fashion is intended for everyone.

Why is the adoption of gender-fluid trends asymmetric?
Because masculinity is traditionally associated with power, women are more likely to adopt masculine styles to signal status or reduce risk. Men often face a higher fear of negative evaluation when adopting feminine markers.