Madrid, a city without a coastline, has nonetheless enjoyed a centuries-long relationship with fish. The iconic bocadillo de calamares – the squid sandwich – isn’t a whimsical creation, but the result of a complex history stretching back long before someone first decided to place fried squid between two slices of bread.
Madrid as an Inland Port
As early as the 16th century, when Madrid served as the political center of the Spanish Monarchy, fish arrived from Galicia and the Cantabrian Sea under incredibly challenging conditions. The journey was made by mule, guided by arrieros maragatos from León, traveling for days along the Camino Gallego or Calzada Real. To preserve the fish, wells filled with snow were used in winter, lasting well into the summer. Even with these efforts, the fish didn’t always arrive in prime condition, leading to culinary traditions like serving sea bream with lemon slices, and the origins of celebrations like the “Burial of the Sardine.”
Logistics improved over the centuries. By the 18th century, the postal system allowed fresh fish to reach Madrid in as little as four days. Later, the railway solidified this direct connection between the coast and the capital. Madrid wasn’t a port, but it functioned as one, receiving, distributing, and consuming seafood with regularity.
However, a key detail remains: 18th-century Madrid cookbooks feature sea bream, bonito, and sardines, but not squid. Something was still missing for this particular bite to become emblematic.
When Religion Also Decides the Menu
Catholic tradition played a significant role. For centuries, prohibitions against eating meat during certain periods – particularly Lent – drove the population to consume fish and shellfish. This wasn’t limited to the court; it extended to all classes. Pickled fish, sold in barrels or small containers, became popular in Madrid as a practical and relatively affordable solution.
Yet, squid still hadn’t taken center stage. Its moment would come later, as Madrid began to transform.
Andalusia, Migration, and Small Eateries
Beginning in the 19th century, the capital opened to new gastronomic influences. One of the most significant was Andalusian. Taverns, grocery stores, and fried fish establishments began to appear, shaping the city’s nightlife and culinary scene for decades.
This was coupled with another key phenomenon: internal migration. Many people working as domestic servants in bourgeois homes came from coastal regions like Galicia or Asturias. They were familiar with seafood and its preparation. Over time, some of these cooks opened their own small eateries and taverns, bringing that knowledge to the streets.
Squid possessed all the necessary virtues: it was inexpensive, boneless, had minimal waste, and, once battered and fried, was flavorful, filling, and easy to serve. Paired with crusty bread, success was assured.
The Sandwich Conquers the Streets
The real breakthrough came in the 1960s. Young people from peripheral neighborhoods would travel to the city center to eat a squid sandwich around the Plaza Mayor. It was cheap, filling, and could be eaten standing up, without formality. Contemporary press described entire streets permeated by that unmistakable smell, somewhere between appetizing and overpowering.
The squid sandwich thus became the food of students, workers, and, over time, a growing precarious class who found in it a dignified and tasty way to eat. It wasn’t haute cuisine, but it didn’t aspire to be. It was urban food, direct, popular.
From Humble Food to Symbol
For years, it was looked down upon by certain gastronomic circles. Today, however, no one disputes its place in the Madrileño imagination. It remains a good, affordable, and recognizable option, coexisting in both neighborhood bars and more contemporary establishments that reinterpret it without complex modifications.
Perhaps its strength lies precisely there: in having been born without a clear founding act, blending logistics, religion, migration, and street life. Madrid didn’t need a sea to make squid its own. It only needed hunger, ingenuity, and a slice of bread.
Frequently Asked Questions
When did fish begin to arrive in Madrid?
Fish began arriving in Madrid as early as the 16th century, when the city became the political center of the Spanish Monarchy.
What role did religion play in the consumption of fish in Madrid?
The Catholic tradition of abstaining from meat during certain periods, like Lent, encouraged the population to consume fish and shellfish.
When did the bocadillo de calamares become popular?
The bocadillo de calamares experienced a surge in popularity in the 1960s, becoming a favorite among students and workers around the Plaza Mayor.
What aspects of Madrid’s history do you think have most contributed to the city’s unique culinary identity?