Paris has reclaimed its dominance as the global epicenter of menswear, with seven of the top 10 most-viewed runway shows this season occurring in the French capital, according to recent data from Vogue Runway. This shift marks a significant departure from the previous season, which saw an even 50-50 split between Paris and Milan. Dior Men, led by Jonathan Anderson, currently holds the No. 1 position, followed by Louis Vuitton and Celine, cementing an all-French top three.
How the Fashion Capitals Are Shifting
The latest season signals a decisive reassertion of French influence. While Milan previously enjoyed a period of parity, the current trend shows a heavy concentration of consumer and industry attention in Paris. Data from Vogue Runway shows that only two Milanese houses—Prada and Ralph Lauren—managed to crack the top 10 list this season. This is a stark contrast to the previous cycle, where Ralph Lauren’s return to Milan propelled him to the top of Vogue Runway’s most-viewed menswear list.
Celine’s entry into the top 10 is particularly notable given the house’s relatively recent history in menswear. The brand only introduced menswear for SS19, under Hedi Slimane.
Why Co-Ed Collections Are Trending
A notable trend this season is the rise of the co-ed runway show, where designers present menswear and womenswear simultaneously. Three of the top 10 shows—Jacquemus, Vetements, and Sacai—featured both categories. While Prada also presented a combined collection, the house reportedly utilized female models primarily to demonstrate the universality of the garments on show than to highlight their gendered differences.
Jacquemus stands out as an outlier in the geography of the season. By staging its show in Corsica, the brand bypassed the traditional city-based schedules of Paris and Milan entirely while still maintaining its status as a French entry.
Which Houses Are Making Waves?
The list of top-performing shows includes five new entries: Celine, Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, Vetements, and Sacai. Anthony Vaccarello’s decision to present his menswear during menswear week has proven successful, securing the house a spot on the list after several seasons of showing so fashionably late that he missed the deadline for inclusion here.
| Rank | House | Status |
|---|---|---|
| 9 | Vetements | New Entry |
| 10 | Sacai | New Entry |
Watch for houses that consolidate their presentation schedules. Saint Laurent’s move to present during menswear week demonstrates that aligning with industry-standard dates is a primary driver for visibility metrics.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which city hosted the most-viewed menswear shows this season?
Paris hosted seven of the 10 most-viewed shows, reclaiming its position as the leading fashion capital over Milan.
What defines a co-ed show in this context?
A co-ed show is a runway presentation that features both menswear and womenswear collections in a single event, a format utilized by brands like Jacquemus, Vetements, and Sacai this season.
Is Ralph Lauren still in the top rankings?
Yes, Ralph Lauren remains in the top 10, representing one of the only two Milan-based houses to make the list this season.
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