The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Slim 30th Anniversary edition arrives as a limited run of 200 pieces priced at CHF 120,000, pairing an 18k white gold case with a redesigned lacquered azure dial. Tracing roots back to the 1977 reference 222 designed by Jorg Hysek, the modern collection transitions to in-house movements carrying the Hallmark of Geneva certification, according to coverage by Monochrome Watches.
Evolution of the Overseas Design
The 222 was discontinued in the mid-1980s before Vacheron Constantin re-edited the model in 2022. That original sports watch established the template for the first Overseas released in 1996, which retained the Jumbo 37mm tonneau-shaped case while introducing a notched bezel shaped like the brand’s Maltese cross emblem. The second-generation Overseas of 2004 expanded the case size to 42mm, added the half Maltese cross motif to the bracelet links, and introduced complications such as a perpetual calendar.
The latest 30th-anniversary reference maintains a slim 41.5mm white gold case profile measuring just 8.1mm thick. It features a six-notched bezel sitting atop a round plinth. Unlike standard models featuring screw-down crowns for 150m water resistance, this perpetual calendar uses a push-pull crown and carries a 50m depth rating.
Pro Tip: The integrated quick-change system hidden beneath the lugs allows wearers to swap the white gold bracelet for the included white rubber or denim blue rubber straps in seconds without tools.
Dial Architecture and Movement Specs
The new lacquered azure dial draws inspiration from a blue tone introduced to the family in 2016, offering a lighter, sunburst-finished center. Monochrome Watches reports that the dial features three recessed, snailed sub-dials with white gold pointer hands. The 48-month leap year indicator sits at noon with light blue accents, accompanied by the date at 3 o’clock and the day at 9 o’clock. An aperture at 6 o’clock displays an 18k white gold moon against a starry azure sky.
Inside the watch sits the manufacture automatic calibre 1120 QP/1 with a perpetual calendar module. The movement measures 4.05mm thick, contains 276 components, and beats at 2.75Hz. It features a solid 22k gold compass-rose rotor providing a 40-hour power reserve. Finishing includes Côtes de Genève, mirror-polished chamfers, and perlage certified by the Hallmark of Geneva.
Market Positioning and Comparisons
Writing for Hodinkee, a reviewer notes that while the release represents a dial refresh, the watch competes directly in the integrated bracelet perpetual calendar space against rivals like Audemars Piguet. According to Hodinkee, buying the Vacheron Constantin in full 18k white gold costs roughly $6,000 more than a steel Royal Oak while offering a thinner profile. Hodinkee also observes that secondary market values for the line have stabilized after previously trading below retail.
Did You Know? The bracelet on the Overseas features short, tapering links stamped with half Maltese cross motifs, equipped with a micro-adjustment clasp offering 2mm of play on each side.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Slim cost?
The watch retails for CHF 120,000 including taxes and is limited to 200 pieces.
What is the water resistance of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar?
It features a push-pull crown rated to 50 meters, differing from the 150-meter water resistance found on standard screw-down crown Overseas models.
What movement powers the watch?
It runs on the ultra-thin automatic calibre 1120 QP/1, which measures 4.05mm thick and holds the Hallmark of Geneva certification.
Explore More Watchmaking News
What are your thoughts on this white gold perpetual calendar? Share your perspective in the comments below, or subscribe to our newsletter for the latest horological releases.
Related reading