Catherine, Princess of Wales, is driving a shift toward “ugly green” as a new wardrobe neutral after wearing a bespoke olive Emilia Wickstead dress to present the men’s singles trophy at Wimbledon.
The Shift from “Ugly Green” to Wardrobe Staple
The color palette first appeared on February runways for Dior, Simone Rocha, and Balmain. At the time, InStyle magazine labeled the hue “ugly green.” However, the Princess of Wales has effectively rebranded the shade. While WWD described her Wimbledon choice as “olive” and Vogue called it “grassy,” the trend is moving away from “dopamine dressing”—characterized by the bright-red Roland Mouret dress she wore to the ladies’ singles final—toward more subdued tones.
Julia McCarthy, founder and creative director of Friends with Frank, notes that olive and khaki are settling into the role of a new neutral. She compares the rise of these softer greens to the way chocolate brown became a wardrobe staple over the last year, offering versatility and depth without the intensity of “brat greens.”
Did you know? The “ugly green” trend is closely tied to “stealth dressing,” a style focused on high-quality basics and muted colors that convey luxury without obvious branding.
Strategic Use of Muted Tones in Royal Wardrobes
Catherine’s adoption of olive isn’t a sudden pivot. She has integrated muted tones for over a year. In May and October of last year, she wore a Victoria Beckham suit featuring a long-line jacket and flared pants. Harper’s Bazaar described that specific shade as reminiscent of a “dirty martini.” Additionally, in January, she wore a drab green jacket from a Barbour collaboration with influencer Alexa Chung to celebrate her 44th birthday.
Other royal figures are adopting similar palettes. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore an Anya shift dress from the Melbourne label Friends with Frank in April during an unofficial tour of Australia with Prince Harry.
Comparative Style Analysis: Bold vs. Muted
| Style Approach | Key Characteristics | Example Garment |
|---|---|---|
| Dopamine Dressing | Bright, high-energy colors | Red Roland Mouret dress |
| Quiet Authority | Muted, structured neutrals | Olive Emilia Wickstead dress |
Expert Insights on the “Nature” Aesthetic
Designer Gary Bigeni, who featured a khaki mock croc trench coat at Australian Fashion Week, links these greens directly to a love of nature. He suggests that working with these tones allows for a departure from standard color palettes.
From a styling perspective, Prue Webb of The Wardrobe Edit argues that muted greens provide structure and polish. According to Webb, khaki in particular “exudes a quiet authority,” proving that the most compelling style isn’t always the boldest. Sydney-based stylist Ken Thompson adds that these deeper greens are a nod to “British racing green,” acting as a form of “style camouflage” for those living a fast-paced life.
Pro Tip: To incorporate olive or khaki into your wardrobe, treat them as neutrals. Pair them with cream, white, or chocolate brown to achieve the “quiet luxury” look favored by the Princess of Wales.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is “ugly green” in fashion?
It is a muted, olive, or khaki-toned green that appeared on runways for brands like Dior and Balmain. While initially criticized by some publications, it has become a symbol of “stealth wealth” and modern sophistication.
Which designers are associated with this trend?
Key designers mentioned include Emilia Wickstead, Victoria Beckham, and Friends with Frank, as well as heritage brands like Barbour.
How does olive green differ from “brat green”?
According to Julia McCarthy of Friends with Frank, “brat green” is vibrant and high-energy, whereas olive and khaki are more wearable, versatile, and function as neutrals.
What do you think of the shift toward muted greens? Would you wear “ugly green” as a neutral? Let us know in the comments below or subscribe to our style newsletter for more trend analysis.
Keep reading