‘Beauty is always changing’: Alessandro Michele’s Roman tribute to Valentino | Fashion

Valentino’s Roman Renaissance: A New Era of Beauty and Nostalgia

Valentino returned to its birthplace, Rome, for its Autumn/Winter 2026 show, a poignant tribute to founder Valentino Garavani who died in January. The event wasn’t just a fashion show; it was a statement about the enduring power of Italian craftsmanship and a re-evaluation of beauty in a changing world.

The Weight of Legacy and Alessandro Michele’s Vision

Taking the helm in 2024, Alessandro Michele faces the challenge of honoring Garavani’s legacy although forging his own path. He acknowledges the “complicated DNA” of the brand, recognizing that beauty is not static. Michele’s previous work at Gucci, known for its maximalist and eclectic style, contrasts with Garavani’s focus on creating “sensational” looks for glamorous women. This tension, Michele admits, is central to his approach.

A Return to the 1980s: Positivity and Empowerment

The Autumn/Winter 2026 collection drew heavily from the 1980s, a period Michele describes as one of “positivity and shiny things.” This era, he believes, marked a turning point for women, granting them greater “control of their presence and their body.” The collection reflected this with strong shoulders, cinched waists, and daringly tight jeans with lace-dipped hems. Oversized jewelry and vibrant jewel tones further emphasized the decade’s bold aesthetic.

Rome’s Enduring Allure and the Hollywood Connection

The choice of Rome as the show’s location was deliberate. The city holds a special place in Valentino’s history, being where Garavani cultivated relationships with iconic film stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. Valentino, alongside Armani, played a pivotal role in establishing Rome as a fashion hub for Hollywood’s elite, dressing more female Oscar winners than any other designer. This connection to cinematic glamour was subtly woven into the show’s atmosphere.

Beyond the Runway: Kering’s Acquisition and Future Prospects

The show arrives at a significant moment for Valentino. Kering, the parent company of Gucci, is currently in the process of acquiring Valentino. Michele’s success in transforming Gucci into a £7.5 billion brand fuels the hope that he can replicate that success with Valentino, elevating it to a similar stature as Dior and Saint Laurent. The challenge lies in balancing the brand’s heritage with a modern vision.

The Intersection of Fashion and Global Events

Michele acknowledged the difficult global context, stating, “It’s a strange moment, working in fashion, when there is a war outside, it’s not easy.” Despite these challenges, he reaffirmed his commitment to his craft, stating, “But I can do this, and nothing else.” This sentiment highlights the role of fashion as a source of beauty and escapism, even in times of uncertainty.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Who is the current creative director of Valentino?
A: Alessandro Michele took over as creative director in 2024.

Q: Where did the Autumn/Winter 2026 Valentino show take place?
A: The show was held in Rome, at the 17th-century Palazzo Barberini.

Q: What decade inspired the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection?
A: The collection was heavily inspired by the 1980s.

Q: What is Kering’s involvement with Valentino?
A: Kering, the parent company of Gucci, is in the process of acquiring Valentino.

Did you know? Valentino Garavani was known for his attention to detail, particularly the back of garments, a detail revisited by Michele in this collection.

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