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Fashion week: Saint Laurent true to codes

by drbyos

The parades Saint Laurent take place each season at the foot of the Eiffel Tower on the Trocadéro side. This time, the huge structure hosting the show is covered with mirrors that reflect the image of the Iron Lady who casts it at nightfall. Inside, on a thick beige carpet, the models see their steps preceded by a chase of light whose effect works wonderfully.

This season like the previous ones, Anthony Vaccarello revisits the Saint Laurent codes. This time he cites the master’s 90s, which he describes as bourgeois and more conventional in comparison to what had been produced in previous decades. He reinterprets them using references from the 80s. We find the color associations so dear to Saint Laurent developed in his YSL line on the left bank with this agreement for example: ocher blouse, red latex pants, mauve jacket.

In Paris, February 25, 2020, Yves Saint-Laurent fashion show Fall Winter collectionPhoto Lucile Boiron for Liberation

Vaccarello stands out from the crowd by adding to the most classic pieces (cashmere jackets of different invoices, which he tends to reinforce on the shoulders, flowing, often transparent lavender collar blouses, high-waisted skirts falling below the knee) lingerie ( a lace bra with crossed straps on the chest) and especially latex which fetishes almost every look. Girls wear it in leggings, necessarily ultra-tight pants, pencil skirt decorated with thigh boots or in a dress, one of which with a high collar decorated with frills ends “wisely” at the level of the calf). The material, complex to handle, unflattering for ordinary people, sometimes makes the silhouettes fall on the wrong side of the barrier, in what Vaccarello rightly wanted to avoid and that Yves Saint Laurent hated: vulgarity.

Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation


Marie Ottavi

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