Saint Laurent’s recent men’s collection, presented at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, signals a strategic pivot toward fluid silhouettes and elevated sportswear. Designer Anthony Vaccarello utilized Fujiko Nakaya’s “Cloud #07145” installation to frame a narrative of restraint, replacing previous viral gimmicks with classic, approachable archetypes like trenchcoats and sailor sweaters, according to reports from WWD.
How is luxury menswear shifting away from viral gimmicks?
The transition in Saint Laurent’s design philosophy marks a departure from the high-concept accessories that dominated previous seasons. Vaccarello explicitly moved away from items like the leather hip waders that previously went viral, focusing instead on “straightforward, quintessentially masculine” staples. This shift aligns with a broader industry trend toward longevity and wearable luxury, as noted by the designer during the presentation. By stripping away complex structures, the brand aims to create a more fluid, sensual movement in menswear that mirrors the evolution of sportswear into high-fashion territory.
Vaccarello incorporated styling techniques from the late fashion icon Tina Chow, specifically the use of jeweled buttons, to add texture and history to his elongated jacket designs.
Why is the integration of “old-school” and “contemporary” aesthetics trending?
Designers are increasingly blending archival silhouettes with modern fabric technology to appeal to a broader demographic. Vaccarello highlighted this contrast by pairing high-waisted gray trousers—reminiscent of those worn by Jacques Chirac—with contemporary, superhero-shouldered anoraks made of colorful nylons. According to Vaccarello, the objective is to lighten the silhouette and make garments more fluid. This approach acknowledges the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent, who pioneered the elevation of everyday clothing long before sportswear became a dominant force in street style.
What role do immersive art installations play in fashion presentations?
The use of the Bourse de Commerce as a venue demonstrates the growing reliance on experiential marketing to contextualize fashion. Fujiko Nakaya’s fog sculpture served as more than a backdrop; it functioned as a sensory element that obscured and revealed the garments, emphasizing the designer’s theme of seduction through restraint. While tourists often visit the site for social media content, the fashion industry is leveraging these spaces to create a cohesive narrative that bridges the gap between traditional runway shows and public-facing art exhibitions.
Pro Tips: Identifying Future Trends
- Focus on Fluidity: Look for designers moving away from rigid tailoring toward hammered satins and soft, draping fabrics.
- The Return of the Archetype: Expect a continued resurgence of classic pieces like the trenchcoat and vest, updated with modern materials like lame or transparent synthetics.
- Gender-Fluid Styling: The inclusion of leather briefs with structured jackets suggests that the boundaries of traditional menswear are becoming increasingly porous.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What inspired the Saint Laurent men’s collection?
- The collection was inspired by the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent and his early efforts to elevate everyday sportswear, combined with a modern desire for fluid, sensual movement.
- Is the fog installation a permanent feature?
- No, the fog sculpture, titled “Cloud #07145” by Fujiko Nakaya, is part of the temporary “Clair-Obscur” group show at the Bourse de Commerce.
- Why are designers moving toward “approachable” collections?
- According to Vaccarello, there is a strategic shift toward timeless, masculine archetypes that offer a more diverse and wearable alternative to past experimental trends.
What do you think of the shift toward fluid, classic menswear? Join the conversation in the comments section below or subscribe to our newsletter for the latest updates on Paris Fashion Week.
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