Japanese climber Satone Yoshida has repeated Three Degrees of Separation, a 5.15a (9a+) route in Céüse, France, requiring only four days and seven attempts to complete the climb. First ascended by Chris Sharma in 2007, the route is defined by a mandatory dyno.
Beta and the Dyno Challenge
The 25-metre route relies on a specific sequence that often favors taller climbers. According to Yoshida, the first dyno was significantly farther than he anticipated, forcing him to utilize a specific, tiny foothold that other climbers had not used to successfully reach the target holds.
Yoshida’s success highlights the evolution of “beta”—the sequence of moves used to solve a route. By adjusting the standard sequence to accommodate his height, Yoshida demonstrated that difficulty is often subjective based on a climber’s reach. He noted that while the route is difficult for those lacking height, finding the right sequence makes the send “far from impossible.”
Did you know?
Adam Ondra, who made the second ascent of Three Degrees of Separation in 2015, suggested the 5.15a grade despite noting that the route’s style did not suit his strengths. He famously remarked that it felt like the hardest route in Céüse.
Competitive Versus Outdoor Performance
Yoshida’s outdoor success follows a busy competitive season. The 22-year-old placed seventh at the Chamonix World Cup just one week before his send in Céüse. He currently holds the eighth position in the standings for the current season.
Future Trends in Elite Climbing
Pro Tips for Projecting
- Analyze the beta: As Yoshida discovered, standard sequences don’t always apply to every body type. Look for underutilized holds.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the grade of Three Degrees of Separation?
- The route is widely considered 5.15a (9a+), a grade suggested by Adam Ondra after his 2015 repeat.
- Who made the first ascent of this route?
- Chris Sharma completed the first ascent of the route in 2007.
- How long did Satone Yoshida to send the route?
- Yoshida completed the route in four days, totaling seven attempts.
Have you ever had to change the “standard” beta on a classic route to fit your height? Share your experiences in the comments below or subscribe to our newsletter for more updates on elite climbing performances.
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