Chef Debbie Lee’s Yi Cha Reimagines the Korean Gastropub in Highland Park

by Rachel Morgan News Editor

Chef Debbie Lee’s new restaurant, Yi Cha, offers a “new-school take on a Korean gastropub” in Highland Park, blending her Northern Korean heritage, Southern upbringing, and years of experience in Los Angeles.

A Personal Culinary Journey

Lee, who has appeared on Food Network Star, Chopped, and Morimoto’s Sushi Master, personally delivers dishes like jangjorim (wet beef jerky) and fish jerky to diners, sharing the stories behind her food. Her kimchi preparation reflects her Northern Korean roots, utilizing salt and shrimp instead of the fish-and-oyster style common in the South.

Did You Know? Barley rice holds sentimental value for North Koreans, as the communist regime once banned white rice at markets.

The menu at Yi Cha is divided into bar bites, small plates, medium plates, and large plates. Offerings include the Ahn-Joo platter, a throwback to Lee’s food truck days, and a unique mandu lumpia ssam style created in collaboration with her Filipino-American sous chef.

Lee isn’t aiming for strict authenticity, acknowledging the presence of excellent Korean restaurants in Koreatown. Instead, she’s presenting a modern interpretation of Korean cuisine, a choice that has garnered both devoted fans – including a couple who drive from Venice to order the entire menu – and occasional scrutiny.

Expert Insight: Chef Lee’s approach highlights a growing trend in culinary spaces: chefs drawing on personal heritage and regional influences to create innovative, rather than strictly traditional, dining experiences. This can lead to broader appeal, but also requires navigating expectations around authenticity.

The restaurant features a selection of cocktails and Korean spirits, and dishes like the KFC (Korean fried chicken) wings are served with gloves. A gamtajang, or “hangover stew,” is also on the menu, as is a chopped sashimi salad with gochugaru lime yellowtail and perilla-cured salmon.

Even seemingly simple dishes have a backstory, such as the fried Asian sweet potato pie, born from Lee’s dissatisfaction with McDonald’s decision to switch to baked versions – a recipe she’s perfected over 16 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of cuisine does Yi Cha serve?

Yi Cha serves a “new-school take on a Korean gastropub,” fusing Chef Debbie Lee’s Northern Korean heritage, Southern upbringing, and decades in Los Angeles.

What is the Ahn-Joo platter?

The Ahn-Joo platter is a sampling of all the bar bites, and is a callback to Chef Lee’s food truck days.

Is the kimchi traditional?

The kimchi at Yi Cha is made with salt and shrimp, reflecting a Northern Korean style, as opposed to the fish-and-oyster style found in Southern Korea.

What aspects of Yi Cha’s approach to Korean cuisine might appeal to a broad range of diners?

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