Khaite’s Spring runway show at the Brooklyn Storehouse marked a definitive shift away from oversized silhouettes toward intricate handcraft, according to designer Catherine Holstein. Held during New York Fashion Week at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, the brand’s presentation combined lingerie-inspired 1920s through 1940s silhouettes with structural elements like horsehair-trimmed crinolines and hidden interior corsetry.
Inside Khaite’s Handcrafted Spring Collection
The collection was built from the inside out, according to Holstein, who spoke backstage after the show. Rather than starting with external silhouettes, the designer focused on labor-intensive handwork.
Additional coverage from Kendam notes that the presentation was staged under stark spotlights inside a pitch-black warehouse. Models displayed bedhead hair alongside exposed bras, slipping minidresses, and nightie-style slips. Crinoline played a major role in the lineup, built into peplum belts atop floral hand-embroidered dresses and waved hems that added movement to sheer button-up shirts.
Did you know? The intricate floral and horse embroideries featured on the collection’s bibs and dresses were directly inspired by the ceiling moldings and atmosphere of the Gritti Palace in Venice, where Holstein and her husband frequently stay, according to the designer’s backstage comments reported by Kendam and ELLE.
Venetian Inspiration and the Shift Away From Oversize
The aesthetic pivot toward romanticism stemmed from personal travel and a change in perspective. Holstein told reporters that her time spent at the Gritti Palace in Venice heavily influenced the collection’s detailed, antique-feeling garments. A pastel lyocell shift with cameo-like cut-outs and hand-tatted lace directly mirrors the ceiling moldings of the Venetian bar.
This softer energy contrasted sharply with the brand’s earlier focus on roomy garments. According to Holstein, experiencing motherhood over the previous four years led her to embrace effortless dressing, but she is now eager to shrink proportions. The collection featured sharp, shrunken leather jackets with exaggerated high shoulders, offering a commanding alternative to the oversized looks that previously defined the label.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where was the Khaite Spring runway show held?
The show took place at the cavernous Brooklyn Storehouse within the Brooklyn Navy Yard during New York Fashion Week.
What inspired the detailed embroideries in the collection?
volgens Catherine Holstein, the collection’s handcrafted embroideries were inspired by the interior ceilings and atmosphere of the Gritti Palace in Venice.
How did the designer change her approach to silhouettes for this season?
Holstein moved away from oversized proportions, focusing instead on shrunken leather layers, hidden interior corsetry, and structured crinolines built into peplum belts and skirts.
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