The United Nations has officially designated Jakarta as the world’s largest city, reporting a population of 42 million inhabitants. This designation highlights the immense scale of the Indonesian capital, often referred to as the ‘big durian,’ where residents navigate extreme congestion and stark social divides.
The Infrastructure of Necessity
For many, the city’s functionality relies on the ojek, or motorcycle taxis. More than a million drivers, recognizable by their bright green jackets, navigate the city’s labyrinthine streets and narrow alleyways to transport people, food, and packages.
Dicky Rio Suprapto, a 48-year-old former engineer, is one such driver. Since leaving formal work in 2017 and later turning to ride-sharing apps after Covid-19, he has relied on his memorized knowledge of the streets to bypass the city’s infamous macet, or deadlock traffic.
Economic Opportunity and Environmental Cost
Jakarta serves as a primary destination for millions seeking better opportunities, though the rewards come with significant trade-offs. For young professionals like 22-year-old Dhewa Radya, an artificial intelligence worker, the city is the best place to launch an early career.
However, the environmental toll is severe. After one year in the city, a medical check-up for Radya revealed lung spots typical of passive smokers, a result of the unavoidable pollution. He also notes that youth unemployment in the region sits at approximately 17%, including many university graduates.
Ingenuity Amidst Inequality
The divide between wealth and poverty is physically visible in areas like the Kuningan central business district. Here, crowded kampungs (villages) exist directly alongside five-star hotels and glass office towers.
In this environment, residents employ creative solutions to survive. Neneng Muslimah, who runs a family warteg (traditional eatery), uses a pulley system to deliver meals—costing as little as Rp10,000 ($0.60)—across a gap left by a removed bridge.
The Invisible Workforce
At the furthest edge of the city’s economy are the informal workers, such as the manusia silver, or “silvermen.” These street performers, including 28-year-old Faqih Ibnu Ali, paint themselves silver to earn money at busy intersections near the national monument, Monas.
Ali, a former fisher who lost his ship to a fire and now lives under a bridge, earns about Rp200,000 ($11) on a good day. His experience reflects the growing inequality of a city where street performers weave between air-conditioned SUVs and exhaust-filled air.
Future Outlook
The trajectory of Jakarta’s residents suggests a continuing trend of migration and adaptation. Young professionals may continue to use the city as a stepping stone, potentially moving abroad to gain experience before returning to Indonesia to seek a better quality of life.
Meanwhile, the city’s physical challenges, including subsidence and heavier rains that increase flooding risks, could further pressure the residents of kampungs and informal workers who lack stable housing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many people live in Jakarta?
According to the United Nations, Jakarta hosts 42 million inhabitants.
What is the youth unemployment rate in Jakarta?
Youth unemployment is about 17%, a figure that includes many university graduates.
What is a warteg?
A warteg is a traditional eatery, such as the one run by Neneng Muslimah, that provides affordable meals to workers.
How do you think a city’s identity is shaped when its residents rely on humor and ingenuity to survive extreme urban challenges?
